THE LAND OF SMILES

       In Thailand you will find an exhilarating mix of food, culture, attractions and landscapes. If seeking a wealth in interesting and unique experiences, then a trip here is not complete without visiting a few of the jewels in the crown.Whether you negotiate the concrete jungle that is Bangkok, play on the beautiful beaches to the south or explore the mountains and valleys surrounding the northern capital Chiang Mai, this wonderful country offers a little taste of everything.
       Formerly the epitome of the steamy Asian metropolis, in recent years Bangkok has gone under the knife and emerged as a rejuvenated starlet, defiantly daring people to guess her age. Her wrinkles haven't all been erased, but you might not notice them in the ever-expanding and efficient public transportation system,airconditioned mega-malls and internationalstandard restaurants. A diverse international community, a burgeoning art scene and a new airport complete the new look, making even frequent visitors wonder what happened to the girl they once knew.
       But don't take this to mean that there's no "real" Bangkok left. The Royal Palace and Wat Phra Kaeo still sparkle just as they did more than 200 years ago. You can still taste classic Bangkok cuisine in the shophouses of Bang Lamphu, and the Skytrain and the underground have had little impact on the canal-side houses of Thon Buri. The traditional framework that made this city unique is still very much alive and kicking, and can be found a short walk from any Skytrain station or probably just around the corner from your hotel.
       By contrast,the mist-shrouded mountains of Chiang Mai province have long enticed visitors to explore this southern slice of the great Himalayan mountain range. Initially drawn north by tales of elephants and vine-filled jungles, visitors are pleasantly distracted by the gateway city of Chiang Mai, a laid-back cultural capital.
       Further piquing the imagination are the minority tribes who live among the highaltitude valleys, struggling to maintain their ethnically independent identities. The province straddles one of Asia's great crossroads - a southern spur of the Silk Road fusing commerce and culture between points further north and west in moder-
       day China, Laos and Burma. Ancient caravan traders dealt in opium, silk and timber.
       Today, only silk remains a legal commodity and the horse-drawn conveyances are merely historical legends. Instead the province has adapted to the expectations of a modern marketplace. Chiang Mai is among Thailand's largest cities, though it retains the charm of a small town, and it
       functions as the north's principal hub for tourism, transport, education and cross border commerce.
       Exploring the mainland is like opening a clock - cracking the facing reveals what makes the region tick under the ambient holiday veneer. Underneath is a rowdy and raucous burg that clangs to the sound of incoming traffic, outgoing produce and haggling in the crowded local markets.Even a trip to one of Thailand's island beaches will not let you escape the buzz completely, but the urban soundtrack mixes the rhythmic lapping of the tides with the muezzin's call to prayer.
       Thailand's beaches offer yet another side to this diverse and beautiful country.Artfully mixing nature with beach culture you might never fully escape the hum of humanity that is this tourist mecca, but in many ways exemplifies what Thailand is about.
       An incredibly diverse country that has held tourists spellbound from time immemorial and shall continue to do so for generations to come.
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       This is an edited extract from 'Thailand'(13th edition),by China Williams ฉ Lonely Planet Publications, 2009.