Wednesday, September 23, 2009

TAT chairman steps down amid protests

       Weerasak Kohsurat has stepped down as chairman of the Tourism Authority of Thailand following a staff protest over the board's decision to transfer TAT deputy governors.
       Mr Weerasak tendered his resignation with immediate effect yesterday to Tourism and Sports Minister Chumpol Silpa-archa.
       Mr Weerasak will take up the position of director of the International Institute for Trade and Development,a post for which he was selected by the IITD board and planned to hold concurrently before his resignation from the TAT.
       Staff members were reportedly upset with the TAT board resolution of Sept 15 to transfer the deputy governors. The meeting was chaired by Mr Weerasak.
       The resolution ordered the reshuffle of the deputy governors and controversially assigned some to two or three responsibilities.
       TAT staff criticised the resolution as shameful and said they saw it as serving the interests of politicians.
       They earlier protested and demanded Mr Weerasak's ouster for allegedly allowing politicians to interfere in their work and spending the state enterprise's funding inappropriately.
       The TAT board resolved last week to demote Akkapol Phrueksawan, the deputy governor for tourism products,to a position of adviser with no administrative authority.
       Mr Akkapol was earlier considered one of the favourites to take up the TAT governorship.
       The TAT board resolved to move Pensuda Phrai-aram, the deputy TAT governor for administration, to replace Mr Akkapol as deputy governor for tourism products.
       Mrs Pensuda was also assigned the job of caretaker TAT governor until a
       permanent officer was appointed.
       The TAT board also offered Surapol Sawetseranee,deputy governor for policy and planning, the position of deputy governor for marketing communications.
       The resolution takes effect on Oct 1.
       The TAT labour union is said to be considering protests to show its opposition to the moves.A union source said not all members of the TAT management agreed with the resolution.
       The union would hold talks with the management before deciding whether to go ahead with a rally.
       Unionists want to know why Mr Akkapol was moved to an inactive post and why international markets had been split into two positions - a deputy governor for Asia and the South Pacific,and a deputy governor for Europe,Africa, the Middle East and the Americas.

Weerasak steps down from TAT amid conflict

       Weerasak Kowsurat yesterday stepped down as chairman of the Tourism Authority of Thailand's board in a bid to ease internal conflict following a reshuffle of TAT executives.
       He submitted a letter of resignation to Tourism and Sports Minister Chumpol Silapa-archa.
       Weerasak has reportedly accepted a new job as president of the International Institute for Trade and Development (ITD), a public organisation.
       As TAT chairman, Weerasak was given until today to revamp an executive reshuffle made last Wednesday.
       Prasert Vorapitak, president of the TAT's labour union, said Weerasak should explain the reshuffle, because the union felt it was unfair to some executives.
       The board appointed deputy governor Auggaphol Brickshawana to act as an adviser to the TAT and switched four deputy governors. Auggaphol is reportedly in line to become the next governor.
       Prasert said Weerasak backed the shake-up.

Monday, September 21, 2009

WISH YOU WERE HERE? ASIAN WAR ZONES BATTLE FOR TOURISTS

       Golf in Cambodia? Relaxationin Kashmir? Sightseeing in SriLanka? Some of the region's
       hottest spots are now taking aim at the tourist dollar By Andrew Buncombe
       In Cambodia it's golf, in Sri Lanka it's whale-watching,and on the Indonesian island of Bali officials are promoting the benefits of yoga and meditation. In each place, the intention is the same.Across a swath of South and Southeast Asia previously wracked by war or strife,officials are carrying out a rebranding exercise to lure back tourists who have long been scared of visiting. In places such as Nepal, it is more like fine-tuning. In others, such as Kashmir, it means a complete overhaul.
       In Sri Lanka, where the long civil war involving Tamil rebels was ended earlier this year, officials have already reported a bounce in the number of arrivals. In May, after the Liberation Tigers of Tamil Eelam (LTTE) were defeated and their leader Velupillai Prabhakaran killed, officials announced the launch of a new tourism campaign based on the slogan "Sri Lanka - Small Miracle".
       "The objective was to create a single core idea that can change people's perception of the country," said Dileep Mudadeniya, the managing director of the Sri Lanka Tourism Promotion Bureau. Mr Mudadeniya said he hoped the campaign would raise tourist arrivals by at least 20% to 500,000 visitors in 2010.
       Part of the new campaign includes promoting the watching of blue and sperm whales, which pass close to the southern coast of the island between December and April.
       "We have an image that has been challenged by war and travel advisories," Mr Mudadeniya explained to the Agence FrancePresse, which surveyed the efforts of officials across the region."Now the war is over.There is lot of interest in us and we will see an upswing by November."
       Nepal has also long suffered an image problem as the result of a decade-long civil war between the government and Maoist guerrillas that ended in late 2006. Last year,visitor numbers were back up to 550,000 after foreign governments relaxed their travel warnings, and officials hope to attract one million by 2011.
       Part of that effort involves promoting parts of the country that have attracted fewer visitors."There are lots of unexplored areas in western and eastern Nepal and this time we are trying our best to encourage people to visit those areas," said Aditya Baral, director of the Nepal Tourism Board."We are banking on the peace dividend."
       In Indian-administered Kashmir the tourists are also slowly returning. This longdisputed region was once one of India's tourism gems, annually luring up to 700,000 people. After a new wave of militancy broke out in 1989, tourists became a rarity. But slowly they are returning, and already this year more than 380,000 people have visited.
       A key plank of Kashmir's campaign has been to promote itself as a golfing destination and its Royal Springs club has been voted the best in India. Its fifth hole, which looks out over the lake and the mosques of Srinigar's old quarter, is particularly famed, while officials in the town of Gulmarg, located at 2,650 metres, claim to have the highest green course in the world. The state is promoting itself with the catchphrase "Paradise once again".
       Bali also knows about the impact of violence on tourist numbers. Bombings in 2002 and 2005 killed 220 people. In the aftermath of the first attack, visitors to the island, which had been particularly popular with Australian holiday-makers, fell by about 70%. Anak Agung Suryawan Wiranatha of the island's Tourism Board said Bali had since been marketing itself as a haven of peace.
       Of all the countries in the region seeking to overhaul their image, the one that perhaps has the toughest challenge is Pakistan. With locations such as the Swat valley and the breathtaking northern areas around Gilgit,Pakistan attracted 800,000 visitors in 2007.But as militancy worsened, the numbers halved to 400,000. This year's figure is expected to be still lower, despite the recent recapturing of the Swat valley from the Taliban.
       "Terrorism has really affected us," admitted Tourism Minister Ataur Rehman."We have started our endeavours to attract tourists from the world over as the situation in Swat and other areas is stable now and will enable us to again make them attractive tourist zones."

THIS IS TOKYO, AND IT"S TERRIFIC!

       Life in Tokyo moves at a well-oiled clip, with an energy that borders on mania and an obsession with newness that seems to make all ideas quickly obsolete. Fashions begin to fade almost as soon as they are plucked from clothes hangers, and keitai (mobile phones) are traded up for each latest technological advancement.
       But even while throngs of tech-savvy, smartly styled Tokyoites trot through underground stations, there is a traditional side to this hyper-urban city, which may not be immediately evident.
       TOKYO ENCOUNTER 2ND EDITION: Available at all good bookshops for 450 baht.
       Beneath the conspicuous consumption of its shopping districts and shiny facades of the latest architectural achievement, Tokyo throws out unexpected glimpses of its cultural core. At a Shinto shrine across town, a young man purchases a fortune and, after reading it, ties it to a strung frame whose many paper fortunes rustle like leaves in a breeze. In a neighbourhood sento(public bath) in Asakusa, an old woman bathes with her tiny granddaughter, much as she once did with her own grandmother.
       Tokyo's unique vitality springs from this intertwining of the new with the time- honoured old. While it's the wellspring of Japanese pop culture, it is also a place where the patrilineage of its imperial family is a tightly held institution. It's the city to which Japanese nonconformists flee but where individuality is often linked to an older form of small-group identity. It's a metropolis where the pressure cooker of traditional societal mores and expectations explodes into cutting-edge art, music and inventions like the ``boyfriend's arm pillow''. Even pop culture like manga, as it takes the world by storm, is rooted in the tradition of Edo-period ukiyo-e (wood-block prints from the ``floating world''). And so, as its modern gears keep turning, the basic machinery of this intriguing city remains true to its origins.
       2008 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. All rights reserved. For more information visit www.lonelyplanet.com.
       This is an edited extract from Tokyo Encounter 2nd Edition, by Wendy Yanagihara Lonely Planet Publications, 2009.

CANALSIDE MARKET A MAGNET FOR URBANITES

       For the past five years the spacious grounds along the banks of Khlong Lad Mayom have served as a weekend getaway for numerous day-trippers looking for the taste and feel of old Thailand.
       Every Saturday and Sunday at Khlong Lad Mayom, locals gather in small boats and canalside stalls with a wide variety of fresh homegrown produces and mouth-watering delicacies to pamper visitors' taste buds. These include herbal beverages, sweets and an endless array of traditional Thai dishes whose recipes have been handed down from generation to generation.
       Credit for this weekend success story must be given to the determined initiative of the Khlong Lad Mayom community leader, Chuan Chuchan, a senior resident whose desire to preserve the canalside community led him to establish the floating market as a way to maintain the neighbourhood's unpretentious natural features and traditional way of life.
       Mr Chuan saw that the peaceful atmosphere and shady surroundings serve to detach the waterside location from the regular bustle of city life, and envisioned Khlong Lad Mayom as a magnet to draw all breeds of travellers away from the stark urban landscape into an idyllic bygone era.
       The development of cultural tourism was implemented as a conservation strategy as well as an economic initiative. In turning the waterway into a secondary source of income for locals, Mr Chuan believed that the floating market would also create a focal point to strengthen community harmony as well as contribute significantly to a sense of ownership and homeland pride.
       His notion has ultimately proved to be beneficial to a growing number of locals. The once modest floating market has been gradually enlarged and expanded to cover a wide stretch of land on both sides of Bang Ramad Road, and witnesses a continual flow of tourists.
       Apart from the local culinary delights, rental boats are available to access an extensive network of navigable waterways. Winding through orchards and farms dotted with houses and sites of historical importance, visitors are provided with a glimpse into the charming old way of life along the canal. There are tours of the attractions adjacent to the market lasting an hour or two, or a half-day passage can be booked to view popular sightseeing spots further out which are connected to the Khlong Lad Mayom community via the canal system.
       The Khlong Lad Mayom market might still be overshadowed by some of the more famous floating tourist hubs in the city, but its relaxing ambience definitely holds the promise of a great and enjoyable escape.

GOBBLING DOWN SAMUI

       Beyond sand and surf and new hotels across the lowlands and atop the hills, Koh Samui is also a good place for a tummy-challenging tour of the culinary world.
       Thanks to Citibank, I had a chance to try the food journey throughout the island, from local dishes and fusion to Mediterranean, Italian, creatively designed refreshments and sweet treats.
       Throughout the three-day trek through seven eateries, you require the ability to sample at least eight dishes per venue.
       Is it totally fun? Yes-with the help of digestive pills.
       Ideally, you'll able to spend time at each place, enjoying a lazy pace and the stunning sea views and welldesigned sea views and well designed decor while savourig good food.
       It's recommended to start with the local dishes at Krua Chao Baan on Bang Naam Jued Beach. In business for nearly 20 years, the seaside, openair restaurant is presented simply with atap-thatched shelters, but the delicious food is second to none and the prices are reasonable.
vThe menu is extensive. Among the mouth-watering dishes are kaeng som pla kapong(sour soup with white snapper) , the Krua Chao Baan puffy omelette stuffed with minced shrimp, crab, squied and mushroom and wai phad sapparod(stir-fried octopus with pineapple).
       But those prove to be just warmups for the rest of the tour. For more seafood and Thai cuisine in a fine-dining experience with Thai classical music, there's Samui Seafood at the Muang Samui Spa Resort.
       Done up in Thai-style decor with wood predominant, its Thai dishes are prepared under the supervision of Amintra Sukarawan, the founder of the Royal Thai Culinary Centre.
       She's inherited the exquisite royal Thai cuisine and food carvings from her grandmother, ML Puang Tinakorn.
       Its thod mun koong (deep-fried shrimp patties) are formed in ring shape and skewered with lemongrass, to go well with mango and sesame dip.
       The most stunning dish, however, is gai satay(chicked satay with peanut sauce), where the sticks of checkens are served in a small, elephant-shaped terracotta stove filled with charcoal. If you want to take the terracotta elephant home, it's Bt1,200.
       After the heavy meals, take a break with afternoon tea and eleverly designed canapes at the design hotel Library on Chaweng Beach.
       At the cube-shaped inn with its spacious green lawn is the minimalist restaurant The Page, where you can sit in the air-conditioned area, in the open air or on a terrace overlooking the sea and an unusual swimming pool of red mosaic.
       I can recommed the smoked salmon with cantaloupe, tuna ricotta cheese, prawn cake ball, toasted bread with N'duja and the fruit skewer.
       Six Senses Hideaway Samui has been praised for its breathtaking views of the gulf and outlying islands. It's best to try refreshments while enjoying the sunset at Dining on the Rocks, located at the tip of the headland with a 270-degree view.
       Among the creations are hamachi sushi, lamb somtam, smoked salmon with pickled cucumber and hot lime ice cream.
       If you yearn for Italian cuisine in a romantic seaside setting, Olivio at the Baan Haad Ngam Resort is where most people go.
       Italian chef Luigi Fadda warmly welcomed us with a mixed starter of antipasto. Among the signature dishes are fettuccine seafood, salmon steak, baked snowfish with rosemary and garlic asd ink risotto with prawn and seafood.
       You should save room for dessert, because his tiramisu in a cup of coffee is terrific.
       Another option for a fantastic dinner is the Pier, right at the pier at Fisherman's Village. The two-storey, loft-style eatery was designed by noted architect Duangrit Bunnag and serves both Thai and European dished with nice presentations.
       After running the Mangrove restaurant next to Samui airport for seven years, French chef Yannick Tirbois and his wife Ilse Dumont joined with the Thai businessman who owns the Karmakamet Aromatic Hotel. They took over the Pier, adding more European dishes in the menu.
       The mixed seafood starter is a must, with laab gai(spicy chicked salad) , pad thai(stir-fried Thai noodles), deep fried herbed pork ribs and crispy softshell crab with curry powder.
       When night falls, up your beat at the Red Snapper Bar & Grill at the Chaweng Regent Beach Resort, which boasts live Latin music.
       The menu here focuses on Mediterranean cuisine, and of course, red snapper in an herbed crust is the signature dish.
       For starters, opt for grilled chichked on bamboo marinated in Moroccan spices or tuna carpaccio with balsamic and olive oil dressing. The roast duck breast with red wine sauce is also terrific.
       BE VERY, VERY HUNGRY
       Krua Chao Baan at Hua Thanon near Wat Sila-ngu is open daily from 10am to 10pm. Call(077)418 589 or (089) 009 5560.
       Samui Seafood Restaurant at the Muang Samui Spa Resort is open daily from 11am to midnight. Call(077)429 700 or visit www.MuangSamui.com.
       The Page at the Library Hotel is open daily from 6:30am to 11pm. Call(077) 422 767-8 or visit www.TheLibrary.name.
       Dining on the Rocks at the Six Senses Hideaway Samui is open daily from 6.30pm to 10.30pm. Call(077) 245 678 or visit www.SixSenses.com.
       Olivio at the Baan Haad Ngam Resort is open daily from 11am to 10.30pm. Call(077) 231 500-8 visit www.BaanHaadNgam.com.
       The Pier at Fisherman's Village is open daily from 11am to midnight. Call(077) 430 680.
       The Red Snapper Bar&Grill at the Chaweng Regent Beach Resort is is open daily from 5pm to 1am. Call(077) 422 008 or visit www.ChawengRegent.com

A HIGHER CALLING

       With clean air, pristine forests and charming natives, Sikkim and Darjeeling win the heart of a die-hard urbanite
       We"re 2,500 metres up in the mountains of Sikkim, India, and our for-wheel-drive Toyota is navigating the narrow and rocky roads, a precarious drop down the steep mountainside just inches away from the wheels.
       Oh, and it's pitch dark and raining too. Because we're so high up, each time the lightning flashes, the pale faces of our group are clearly illuminated. There are six of us crammed along with luggage in this multi-purpose vehicle.
       A couple of white-knuckled hours later, we reach our destination- the Hee Tourist Lodge run by folks from a village called Hee Bermiok. There's no electricity but we are given candles-and at least we are out of the rain.
       Welcome to the world of northeast India's eco-tourism, I say silently to myself.
       This is day two of my visit to Sikkim, India's least populous state, and to Darjeeling, a district in neighbouring state West Bengal.
       Both places offer plenty of opportunities for travellers who want to experience the pristine natural beauty of the highlands and still do it in an eco-sensitive way.
       Booking at homestays like the Hee Tourist Lodge in Sikkim helps to sustain the livelihood of the local rural communities, most of whom practise organic farming and a lifestyle that aims to minimise impact on the eco-system.
       Chemicals are banned at their farms, as is slaughtering animals, while fishing in ponds is restricted and construction regulated. No house can be higher than two storeys and roofs must be painted green to blend in with the surroundings.
       Despite the long and sometimes nerve-racking rides ascending and descending the mountains, I'm soon won over by the panoramic vista of the Himalayan range, the nearest peak of which is the majestic 8,586m
       Mount Kanchenjunga, the third highest mountain in the world.
       I'm not much of and outdoors person, but it's hard not to be enamoured with the unsullied air, the early morning forest treks and the charm and friendliness of the locals, most of whom are from the various Nepali tribes inhabiting the area.
       Before Sikkim, our party spent the night at Darjeeling, world famous for its tea and the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway trains, built in 1879. It's also a Unesco World Heritage Site.
       Despite not being a morning person, I was lured from my bed at 4am by the promise of a blazing sunrise at Tiger Hill, the highest point in Darjeeling district at 2,600m. Greeting the rising sun as it spills over the Himalayan back-drop was an experience worth the finger-numbing 4-degrees Celsius.
       Another attraction in Darjeeling town is the Swiss Hotel, run by Indian eco-tourism tour operator Help Tourism. The quaint building, which started as a bakery built by a Swiss couple almost a century ago, also supports local farmers. The butter, honey and vegetables used at this hotel are all locally produced.
       Less touristy is the Gurung Guest House, a homestay run by the Gurung family from the village of Tinchuley, 32km from Darjeeling's town centre.
       "We humbly ask our guests to maintain silence and enjoy the nature," says a sign in the cosy lodge, which is surrounded by organic farms and colourful orchid and tulip nurseries that are well worth visiting.
       An even more remote lodge in Darjeeling district is the Neora Valley Jungle Camp in the Village of Kolakham, also set up by Help Tourim, 80km from Darjeeling town. A measure of its isolation is the lack of electricity; villagers who own mobile phones have to travel 9km to charge them at the nearest power supply.
       While some might feel queasy at the thought of no electricity to charge their modern gadgets, I soon discovered a more immediate source of unease:My cosy cabin overlooked a 500m drop to the village of Kolakham below.
       Towards the end of my trip, my body felt in fine form after all the organic vegetarian fare - rice, daal, potatoes, peas, cauliflower and crispy poppadums. Thanks to the cool mountain elimate, the treks were not as strenuous as I initially feared.
       Plus, it was good to know that despite the massive carbon footprint incurred in flying there, my respect-even awe - for nature had been restored.
       Tourists can also help to sustain the local communities by channelling expenses straight to them.
       Looking back, I would do the scary drive again too. After all, what is a mountain adventure without any risks?

THAI'S STARRING ROLE IN HOLLYWOOD DRAMA

       An international thriller with a touch of glamour, intrigue and a money trail
       Two years after Americans Gerald and Patricia Green had taken over the running of the Bangkok International Film Festival (BKKIFF), Tourism Authority of Thailand governor Juthamas Siriwan had no doubts the Hollywood couple had transformed the backwater event into a glittering success.
       Mrs Juthamas confidently predicted before the start of the 2005 festival that it would generate a record five billion baht in film distribution revenue and entice more foreign movie crews to shoot in Thailand.
       But four years on, the Greens are facing jail terms of up to 10 years after a US court convicted them last Monday of paying $1.8 million in bribes to Mrs Juthamas to secure the festival and other lucrative TAT projects.
       While the former tourism chief has strongly denied the charges in the past, media and friends were unable to contact her last week. The National Anti-Corruption Commission is now deciding whether there are grounds to charge Mrs Juthamas based on information from the trial in Los Angeles.
       Gerald Green,77, and his wife Patricia,52, were found guilty of conspiracy to violate the Foreign Corrupt Practices Act (FCPA), eight violations of the FCPA and seven acts of money laundering. In addition, Patricia Green was found guilty of two counts of falsely subscribing a US tax return.
       While the Greens were on trial in a US jurisdiction, Mrs Juthamas' alleged role in the corruption was widely mentioned in press reports and official court documents tendered by the US government.
       The US government's trial memorandum goes into details about the alleged intricate relationship between the Greens and Mrs Juthamas, how the payments were made, and how the former governor acted as an "adviser" to the TAT after she stood down once the claims became public.
       It says the Greens arranged payments totalling $1.8 million from a group of Beverly Hills businesses they owned for the benefit of Mrs Juthamas over a four-year period which resulted in $14 million in revenue for the Greens' businesses.
       "The corrupt payments took place by transfers into the overseas business accounts of Juthamas' daughter, Jittisopa Siriwan, aka Jib, Juthamas' friend,Kitti Chambundabongse, and occasionally by cash delivery to Juthamas in person. Defendants owed Juthamas these corrupt payments as a variable percentage on TAT-related contracts and subcontracts including, but not limited to, the Bangkok International Film Festival, the Thai Privilege Card,calendars, a book, a website, public relations consulting, a video and a logo."
       Gerald Green was the one who knew Mrs Juthamas and negotiated with her on budgets and details of TAT contracts, including contracts where the Greens' businesses "took the role of subcontractor" to other companies that formally held the contract with TAT.
       The document alleged the Greens "inflated the budgets of these budgets to allow for the payments to Juthamas,the official approving and promoting these same contracts".
       Patricia Green was in charge of dayto-day business operations and implemented her husband's scheme to make the corrupt payments, according to the document.
       "In planning and making the bribe payments for the benefit of Juthamas,defendants referred to them in discussions as 'commission' payments.When defendant Gerald Green instructed that it was time to make a 'commission' payment, defendant Patricia Green and another employee,Susan Shore, would look to see which of the businesses had the money available for any given payment. Defendant Patricia Green made all the 40 or more wire transfers and cashiers check transactions at the bank herself, and she planned and tracked these payments.These payments for Juthamas followed promptly upon the receipt into the Green businesses of TAT or TATrelated revenues."
       The memorandum alleges that planning and budgeting for the payments to Mrs Juthamas was documented extensively in handwritten notes, memoranda, budget drafts and internal documents prepared by the Greens, Shore and other employees.
       "The actual payments for Juthamas themselves were reflected in the Greens businesses' bank records and other accounting records, as well as in handwritten notes and schedules tracking amounts paid and still owing," the document says.
       "Both defendants, as well as their co-conspirators Juthamas and Jittisopa, engaged in various patterns of deception to hide the bribery from others, including the Thai government and later the United States government."
       The Greens hid the amount of business Mrs Juthamas was "corruptly directing" to them and evaded Thai government fiscal controls meant to check Mrs Juthamas' authority by splitting large contracts for the BKKIFF between their various businesses.
       Despite having the misleading appearance of being distinct businesses,they shared the same dummy addresses, telephone numbers and nominee "directors" and "presidents" for use in communication with other TAT officials.
       "In reality, all companies operated out of the same business offices with the same personnel," the document said.
       To hide the extent of the corrupt business Mrs Juthamas was directing to the Greens, other contractors were also recruited who arranged referral fees to the Greens, part of which was paid to the former governor. A third party company was also used as a "billing conduit" for funds intended for the Greens' businesses.
       The Greens transferred the bribes to overseas nominee bank accounts controlled by Mrs Juthamas in the United Kingdom, the Isle of Jersey and Singapore. Money from these accounts then flowed to accounts in Switzerland held in Ms Jittisopa's
       name, but controlled by Mrs Juthamas.
       "Neither Jittisopa nor Kitti had done any work as employees or contractors of (the) defendants' businesses on the TAT contracts that would explain why accounts in their names had received $1.8 million in the defendants' funds, which they concealed on their income taxes."
       The memorandum says that after Mrs Juthamas stood down as TAT governor, the Greens stopped getting new TAT contracts and had difficulty collecting amounts they claimed they were owed for the 2007 BKKIFF.
       It alleges that Mrs Juthamas acted as an "adviser" to the TAT and assisted in a plan to have TAT officials pay off the Greens' claim through a phoney third party transaction involving a Thai company.
       After last Monday's ruling, attorneys for the Greens said they were disappointed by the verdict and were preparing to appeal. The couple are free on bond and sentencing is set for Dec 17.
       "To me it's a case of circumstantial evidence," said Marilyn Bednarski,who represented Patricia Green. She added that "the people of Thailand were not victimised in any way" because the Greens provided "top notch services" for the festival.
       But US assistant attorney Bruce H Searby, who prosecuted the case in Los Angeles, said:"There is no more concrete type of harm to the Thai people than taking money out of their treasury and sending it on a round trip through LA back to a government official."
       While,Mrs Juthamas has maintained her silence on the allegations, in 2007, after she resigned as governor and as a member of the Puea Pandin Party, she threatened to sue the US Justice Department if it implicated her in the bribery scandal.
       "All the procedures involving the case were done according to the regulations and with fairness and transparency among all agencies concerned," she said at the time.
       "I have already contacted the company in Los Angeles and found that some employees were fired for unknown reasons. I believe those cases were caused by internal conflicts inside the company," she said, insisting it was a US matter that had no direct link to Thailand.
       In the original FBI affidavit against the Greens, neither Mrs Juthamas'name nor the recipient of the alleged bribes were identified, but the term "the Governor" and "the Governor's daughter" were used.
       Jerome Mooney, who represented Gerald Green, said he thought the case was pursued in part as a warning by the US government to the entertainment industry about how it works with foreign countries.
       "We understand the government taking a shot across the bow of Hollywood," Mr Mooney said."We just wish the shell hadn't landed on our clients' boat."
       Extra spending to keep local officials happy isn't that unusual.
       A 2007 Times analysis of the budget of the film Sahara , for instance, revealed that $237,386 was spent on "courtesy payments","gratuities" and "local bribes".
       These payments for Juthamas followed promptly upon the receipt into the green businesses of TAT or TATrelated revenues
       FULL HOUSE: The Bangkok International Film Festival was a success.

Tranced out on techno

       Phuket, Thailand's largest island and home to the most famous of the Kingdom's southern beach resorts, has long been building a reputation as a hub for sport and leisure activities. Aside from hosting the King's Cup Regatta each December and the Quick Silver Surf Competition, the island also has its own film festival, fashion week plus annual jazz and food festivals.
       Next weekend, Phuket launches the debut edition of the Roy Fest Phuket Music Festival, a new music event featuring more than 50 DJs and musicians from around the globe. The Tourism Authority of Thailand has invested more than Bt22 million to convert Karon Beach into the ultimate beach dance party, with the operative word being roy-what the southerners call "fun" and "delicious".
       "Hua Hin and Rayoung have their own music festivals, so why not Phuket?" says Norasate Mudkong, aka DJ Seed, who'll be manning the deeks at the festival.
       "Singapore's Zouk Out is an incredibly successful beach dance festival, and our beach is much more beautiful."
       "With the current economic situation, it's important that we promote tourism in Southern Thailand," adds Dom Chotivanich, CEO & partner of creative agency NetPublications. "Phuket is a great place to start-it's strikingly picturesque and, because it's already well known, it's easier to attract tourists from all over the world.
       "Our role models are Singapore's Zouk Out and England's Brighton Beach Festival, both of which receive massive support from their respective municipal government. That stimulates spending and helps money to circulate.
       "Roy Fest actually aims to raise awareness about Phuket, largely by word of mouth from the artists, as we approach the high season."
       The two-day bash will feature two groups of international artists, among them DJs Ken Ishii from Japan, Adsorb from England, Lord Warddd from America and Lapsap from Malaysia, and local mashers such as DJ Seed, DJ Dragon, T-Bone, Ta-Mone, Thaitanium, Southside, Doobadoo, Silly Fools and Smile Buffalo.
       "I've been really impressed with the Japanese DJs' shows here," says Dom. "DJ Adsorb, who played at Glastonbury, is BBC Radio's rising star. It's not easy for a new organiser like us to bring in any big names, or even a rising star, so we've been really luck."
       "DJ Ken Ishii is a world-ranked techno DJ," says DJ Seed, who's the festival's music director. "He once mixed the sound of our kaen [Isaan reed mouth organ] with techno on an album he recorded here. If the Roy Fest is even 60 or 70 per cent successful, I think it can outdo Zouk Out."
       Zouk Out starts at 8pm and ends at 8am, while the Roy Fest runs from 6pm to 2am.
       "I initially planned to run the festival over the same period as Zouk Out, but I was afraid that the audience would be too exhausted. Based on my own experience in Singapore, we're providing a shuttle bus service so that partygoers can head back and crash when they've had enough.
       "We would like everyone to have a good time and enjoy dancing on the beach under the stars and cooled by the sea breezes," says Dom."
       And, in keeping with every good Thai festival, partygoers will also find plenty of booths selling foods, beverages and souvenirs.
       PACKAGE AND PARTY
       Two party packages priced at Bt4,950 and Bt5,250 are available, They include a round-trip ticket on AirAsia and two nights's accommodation. Visit www.RoyFest.com or call (02)503 3878. Karon Beach is on Phuket's west coast, south of Patong and north of Kata.
       Phuket has 712 hotels, ranging from Bt200 to Bt 100,000, with 38,000 rooms and 200 spas including 50 inside the hotels. Phuket has five marinas with 135 yachts moored, as of last month.

MALAYSIA MINISTER PROTECTS LOCAL DISHES

       Malaysia will lay claim to its signature dishes like laksa and chicken rice which are being "hijacked" by other countries, the tourism minis6ter said according to a recent report.
       Those on the list include the fragrant coconut milk rich 'nasi lemak', spicy soup noodle 'laksa' and pork ribs herbal soup 'bak kut teh', Tourism Minister Ng Yen Yen said according to the Star newspaper.
       "We caanot continue to let other countries hijack our food. Chili crab is Malaysian. We have to lay claim to our food," she was quoted as saying.
       "In the next three months, we will identify certain key dishes [to declare as Malaysian]. We have identified laksa...all types of laksa, nasi lemak and bak kut teh," she added. Ng said her ministry would announce a strategy on how to brand the dishes as Malaysian.
       "That is Part Two. We cannot reveal it yet, but we will let you know soon," she said.
       Ng did not name which countries were hijacking the dishes, which are popular around the world and particularly in neighbouring Singapore and Indonesia.
       Her comments came amid a diplomatic row with Indonesia, where protecters have accused Malaysia of stealing its cultural heritage.
       The dispute erupted in Indonesia in August after erroneous reports emerged that Malaysia had screened that Malaysia had screened tourism advertisements featuring the traditional "pendet" dance of Indonesia's Hindu-majority Bali island.
       The ad was actually a promotion for a Discovery Channel programme, but despite an apology from the network, protesters vowing to "crush Malaysia" have burned national flags and thrown rotten eggs at the embassy in Jakarta.

       The comments cameamid a diplomatic row with Indonesia where protesters have accused Malaysia of stealing its cultural heritage.

Efforts to regulate jet skis to be stepped up

       Authorities are stepping up efforts to regulate jet ski operators following alleged scams involving extortion of foreigners over damage to jet skis on Phuket and other incidents.
       Phuket officials, jet ski operators and representatives of insurance companies yesterday met to discuss measures to promote tourism in the resort island and to bring jet ski operations into the insurance system to prevent possible extortion of foreigners.
       The move came after the recent distribution of video recordings featuring foreign tourists allegedly being ripped off over damage to jet skis on Phuket and other incidents.
       Phuket deputy governor Samith Palwatwichai said a committee will be set up to look at the possibility of having all jet skis in the province insured.
       Mr Samith said local authorities, insurers and jet ski operators will meet again on Wednesday to thrash out the details of insurance premiums for jet skis.
       A total of 219 jet skis are available for rent on Surin, Bangtao, Kamala, Patong and Kata-Karon beaches.
       Mr Samith said the provincial marine office had been asked to survey and register jet ski operators in the province.
       The deputy governor said operators will be asked to stop overcharging and extorting tourists or demanding exorbitant compensation for minor damage to jet skis.
       Suvimol sae Lim, director of the Phuket insurance commission office, said Phuket should serve as a trail-blazer in jet ski insurance as so far no insurers had ever provided coverage for jet ski operators in the country.
       She said if jet ski insurance was introduced in the province, this would help sort out problems involving the extortion of foreigners over damage.
       Tourists who rented jet skis would feel confident they would not be taken advantage of, Ms Suvimol said.
       "If Phuket is successful, it will serve as an example for other provinces which has jet ski operators," she said.
       Ms Suvimol said initially proposed insurance packages would cover damage to jet skis, insure against loss of income due to the damage to jet skis and provide coverage to tourists renting them.
       So far only the Bangkok Insurance company has offered to provide cover for jet skis in Phuket, Ms Suvimol said.
       Anusorn Sa-re, head of the Phuket association of jet ski operators, said he agreed with the proposal and said the insurance premium must be acceptable to operators. He said operators can only earn income between December and May. They could not make money during the remainder of the year as it is the monsoon season.
       Recently, video clips have been distributed showing a female British tourist being arrested for marijuana possession at a full moon party on Koh Phangan and a British marine and a US marine being threatened to pay exorbitant compensation for damage to rented jet skis on Phuket in separate incidents.

WHEN IN ROME ....

       Sipping a 1997 Brunello in an empty wine bar, a view of Tusdany's Orcia Valley all to ourselves at sunset, my companion and I joked about the supposed end of luxury travel.
       We were in Montalcino, a tiny hilltop town that normally attracts wine and food connoisseurs with its world-famous Brunellos and fruity, spicy liive oils. At least seven restaurants were closed on a Friday in July, and those open held few diners.
       We seized the opportunity and drove to Poggio Antico, run by Rome's well-known chef Roberto Minnetti, for a six-course meal capped by the trip's most memorable delicacy, an earthy truffle gelato - no reservation required.
       Italy and its luxuries are within reach even in times of tighter budgets. With a home-swap service and some creative planning, what we would have spent on accommodations covered our food and local transportation costs.
       The trip's only real expenses were $800 (Bt27,000) for airfare and $100 to join the swap programme. For that we got two weeks in Italy, including three days in Rome and day trips from our Tuscan base to Pienza, Siena, Orvieto, Todi, Montalcino and the Maremma coast.
       First-time home-swappers, beware the burden of choice. We spent months trolling HomeExchange.com and negotiating potential date-ranges with families in France, Brazil and Italy interested in our one-bedroom Greenwich Village apartment. Finally, we took a two-storey stone farmhouse just outside Castel del Piano on the slopes of Tuscany's inactive volcano, Mt Amiata.
       Using the same service, which also provides rentals, we found a one-bedroom apartment for 80 euros (Bt4,000) a night in Rome, much less than the average pensione at 130 euros. it was central, pleasantly decorated with Chinese antiques, and pushed us off the tourist path.
       Rome's enoteche, or wine bars, often serve free snacks, another way to cut costs. In the tiered gardens of the Hotel de Russie, where Picasso once drew and where you'll find the city's best people-watching and plastic surgery, our two glasses of wine were 30 euros, accompanied by a plate of fresh fruit, olives, chips and mozzarella skewers.
       After our unfrugal aperitivo, we compensated with dinner at Da I 2 Ciccioni, an unmarked restaurant in Rome's artsy Trastavere neighbourhood. We paid 30 euros each for a family-style feast of pasta a la amatriciana, a lemony roast chicken, squid with peas and copious amounts of wine, limoncello and grappa. Costs dropped dramatically once we got into the countryside around Mt Amiata. We also realised what an amazing trade we had made.
       Our farmhouse overlooked the Orcia Valley, with its patchwork of umber fields and vineyards. A huge brick forno in the backyard - part wood-burning oven, part barbecue - provided a stove, and entertainment, for nights in. We grilled bistec a la fiorentina, a thick T-bone steak from the local butcher with olive oil and salt as well as lamb ribs with rosemary from the garden.
       The homeowner's brother, Stefano, who tends the property's loive orchard, showed up most nights with decent homemade wine and stories about the house's history in World War II. Olive oil and a huge jug of grappa also materialised from the cellar when Stefano came by, as did sheep, summoned by his shouts of "Quay! Quay!"
       A hike down the valley one day led us to a small clear stream, just the right temperature for a swim, and, around the next bend, a private castle built in 1042.
       Saving at least $2,000 on accommodations also meant we could splurge. In Rome, a tour of the Coliseum and the Roman Forum for 22 euros each was a best buy, as a witty guide spun yarns from 21 centuries of history in four hours, full of gladiators and vestal virgins.
       Our best meal in Rome, lunch at Hostaria Romana, was 50 euros for two. Highlights were carciofi alla guidea, or flattened, fried artichokes; spaghetti carbonara; and complimentary hazelnut biscotti.
       Dinner in the gardens of Al Vecchio Forno in San Quirico d'Orcia, which included a memorable pasta with truffle shavings, a taste of Tuscany's famous Chianina cattle, a half-bottle of Brunello di Montalcino and fried squash blossoms, was 83 euros for two.
       At Cisterna nel Borgo, a hilltop restaurant in Castiglione D'Orcia, we had a restaurant-perfected bistec a la fiorentina, an amazing experience at 70 euros. The meal included pasta, wine and the region's famous Ribollita soup for a total of 107 euros.
       Wine, cheese and olive-oil tastings along Tuscany's winding roads are free, but given that the owners usually break off work to give you a tour, buying a bottle or two is a good idea.
       After a tour of Sesti vineyard's biodynamic cellars, we bought a Rosso, a younger wine made from the region's Sangiovese grape, and its aged, certified cousin, the Brunello, for 40 euros.
       The challenge of living modestly was also one of living locally, and led to the trip's best moment: making pizzas from scratch in the forno - topped with our hand-ground pesto, wild boar sausage, and buffalo mozzarella. The cost? 10 euros!

CHINESE TOURISTS KEEP AWAY

       The simmering political uncertainty has discouraged Chinese tourists from travelling to Thailand, with booking for National Day celebrations in the Kingdom down 70 per cent from 2007 level.
       Sittiwat Chivarattanaporn, president of the Thai-Chinese Tourism Association, said yesterday that he has learnt that the Chinese government recommends its people to avoid going to countries with political tourmoil for their own safety while inbound tour operators also hesitate to organise Chinese tours to Thailand.
       He said that in 2007, 70,000 Chinese tourists visited Thailand to celebrate the mainland's National Day on October I, generating Bt 2 billion for the industry.
       He added that if the red-shirted demonstration beginning today lasts longer than three to five days, the country's tourism industry will collapse. The unrest would scare away not only Chinese tourists but also those from other countries.
       Sittiwat claimed that the political uncertainty in Thailand had prompted the shutdown of many organised tours of Chinese to Thailand.
       He said that many Chinese tour opaerators in China were monitoring the situation to see if today's demonstration will last long or end smoothly befor they resume selling tour packages to Thailand.
       "Most operators have been fretting about Thailand's political situation since the collapse of the Asean summit meeting in Pattaya. Then they had to sell neighbouring countries instead," he said.

IN LI, THE ELEPHANT RESTED

       The story goes that, in 12th century, Princess Chamari (not to be confused with Chamathewee) fled south from Luang Prabang in Laos as it was being conquered, and when her elephant reached a spot between Chiang Mai and Lamphun,it went berserk and bolted, crossing rivers and valleys.
       A settlement was established where the beast finally came to rest,and Chamari called it "Li".
       Though today Lamphun's largest district, Li is still little more than empty land.Visitors are few.
       "The word means'a hidden place in the woods," our guide Prisana Yoochana explains as we arrive in the small town of Li itself.
       "In the old days,people came to Li by chance-they didn't mean to come here."
       Perhaps it was the wish,or the curse,of the princess on the run,aiming to keep outsiders well away.
       Li of the 21st century in nevertheless easy and comfortable place to visit.
       Tucked away in the south of Lamphun province, Li is on wellpaved Route 106 as it descends into the remoteness,rolling grassland on either side.Here and there are small hamlets and bamboo shacks,and once in while a bell-shaped pagoda with a shining spire.
       "Li is wee known as 'the Land of Dharma' because a number of great monks came from here," says the guide.
       Khruba Sriwichai,the revered priest who made Doi Suthep in neighbouring Chiand Mai such a popular pilgrims' destination,was a Li native,as was Khruba Chaiwongsa, who integrated the faith of Karen people into a small "Buddhist empire" centred on Wat Phrabart Huai Tom.
       The modern version of that temple's huge golden pagoda comes into view 10 kilometres from downtown Li.Built in 1995, the gilded structure fashioned after Rangoon's famed Shwedagon rises 65 metres to dominate the horizon.
       There are four entrances to the pagoda around the base.A leisurely stroll is called for so that you can fully take in the murals.
       The pagoda has 48 small stupas around its base,and at the very tip an umbrella as crown,which the local karen tell us is made of real gold.
       "Making a pilgrimage to the Shwedagon Temple is an important way for the Karen to affirm their fait,but few make it to Rangoon," one of them explains as she hands visitors free flowers and incense with which to pay their respects.
       We follow the "virtuous path" to the original Wat Phra Thad Ha Duang-the temple of the five pagodas.It sits atop the site of the original settlement of Li.
       The elephant with wanderlust notwithstanding,Princess Chamari evidently established the temple after seeing five mysterious fireballs float above the locale in the night.
       A sizeable chapel hall,with five gilded pagodas,stands on a knoll.The stupas themselves don't look as though they were built in the 12th century,but then they've been gold plated since.There is little to see of the old settlement apart from scattered molehills marking the ruins of city walls.
       It goes without saying that Li remains blissfully undisturbed by commercialism and tourism.It's almost all rural,with rolling hills,forest and small rivers-the best of the beautiful north,in the opinion of many.
       Ther are the temples and stupas to see,and then you can really embrace nature's beauty at Mae Ping National Park,which stretches over 1,000 square kilometres, extending into Doi Tao and Sam Ngao districts.
       A highlight of a visit to Li is a boat ride through the park on the Ping River.The best part is a 140km segment between forested banks and chalk cliffs.
       "If you prefer to get fully engaged with the water instead of just flirting with it,there are exceptional water-falls and series of cascades," says the park chief.
       "You can also have fun hiking across the fields of Thung Kik,which are full of wildflowers."
       And the park has seemingly endless tracks in and out of the woods,an unbeatable lure for serious mountain bikers.
       After a full day's excursion,we return to "urban" Li.Princess Chamari's little town has no posh restaurants,just a noodle shack that keeps customers waiting for their food for half an hour.
       If Chamari wanted Li to be a hideout, a hidden place in the woods,her wish has come true amid the vast empty space,with the citizens absolved of labour and responsibility.
       In Li,things move slowly,often actually standing still.What relaxation,and what a great place to escape to!

Friday, September 18, 2009

Expo on a shoestring

       Shanghai lacks the grand monuments and ancient palaces of China's capital, Beijing, but this bustling commercial centre has plenty of unique attractions of its own:strolls down leafy streets bordered by elegant colonial villas, sweeping riverside vistas and for six months next year what promises to be the biggest World Expo ever.
       Shanghai is gearing up for its role as China's showcase for the May 1-Oct 31 expo, whose theme is "Better City, Better Life," by remaking itself into the country's most chic and modern city with prices to match.
       But with a bit of planning, savvy visitors to this one-time Paris of the Orient can easily eat well, sleep comfortably and take in the sights without getting "shanghai'd" by over-the-top prices.
       ARRIVING :A cab ride from the international airport in Pudong, east of the city, costs US$15-30. Ignore the touts waiting to grab unwary visitors; bring the name of your hotel or other destination in Chinese and use the taxi line if you have luggage or are too tired for adventuring right upon arrival. If you're travelling light, for US$12 the city's magnetic levitation train - the world's only commercially operating maglev service - will whisk you the 30 kilometres into the city in just seven minutes. The maglev connects to the city's No.2 subway line,and five yuan (about 75 US cents) will get you across the river to downtown.
       Arriving at the Hongqiao Airport in the city's western outskirts can be less convenient for public transport. But a cab to the city's centre costs only US$6-10. Don't be put off by that long, snakey cab queue - it moves faster than you would expect. Another option from either airport is to take an airport express bus,which generally costs US$3 or less.WHERE TO STAY How low do you want to go? The youth hostels that generally serve backpackers and students can be a good option, costing a minimum of 45 yuan (under US$7) per night. Shanghai has eight clean, convenient youth hostels,most of them centrally located. A favourite pick is the Captain Youth Hostel,at 37 Fuzhou Road just off the Bund.The hostel's 6th floor bar has views of the river and all rooms have hot-water baths, 24-hour reception service, free Internet access, free movie, free tourism information and luggage storage.
       Another safe option is to book a room at a chain hotel the Greentree Inn, Motel 168 and Hanting hotels all have many good locations and cost less than US$30 a night for a room with all the basics.WHAT TO SEE Shanghai has only a handful of "must see" locations, topped perhaps by Yu Garden, located near the city temple in the centre of what used to be the old walled city.
       Just outside Yu Garden in a pond graced by lotus plants and goldfish stands the Huxingting teahouse and a huge bazaar. Wander through the crowds weekdays are a bit less jammed than weekends through a warren of shops selling silk blouses, tea, tourist kitsch and other chinoiserie.
       Not far from Yu Garden is the Shiliupu ferry pier terminal for cruises along the Huangpu River and for a 50 fen (about 7 cents) ferry ride to Dongchang Road and the glittering financial showcase of Pudong (literally east of the "'Pu"). Continually busy but not overcrowded except during rush hour, the ferry is one of the few cross-river commuting options for the bike and scooter crowd.
       Longer river cruises are also an option.Once in Pudong, a short walk north,again past construction hoardings, takes you to the Riverside Promenade, which provides broad, stunning views of the Bund and busy river traffic and scores of skyscrapers.
       If it happens to be a rare clear day,you might splurge on a 150 yuan (US$22)ticket to the top of the Shanghai World Financial Center, whose transparent floors allow a look 100 floors straight down, and to the horizon in all directions.
       And never yield to the temptation to try to zigzag across the river to the Bund via the ferry. Regardless of what the signs and staff say, until the construction finishes, ferries headed in that direction are letting passengers off in the midst of a pedestrian no-man's-land.
       A quick No. 2 subway ride back to Puxi (west of the river) costs only three yuan or 44 US cents. It will take you to Nanjing Road, Shanghai's most famous shopping street. Nearby People's Square is the location of several other key sights,including the renowned Shanghai Museum, and the Urban Planning Exhibition Hall, with detailed model of the city now and into the future.
       Admissions for those facilities are inexpensive, but a stroll through the French Concession, one of several zones controlled by foreigners before and during World War II, can be had for free.
       Farther afield, a quick trip to Longhua Temple, on the No.1 subway line, is a nice antidote to the noise and traffic of the centre city. In the sprawling compound, worshippers young and old burn incense and prostrate themselves before seemingly countless golden Buddhas.
       While Shanghai's outskirts lack the rugged scenery of the Great Wall, day trip or overnight visits by train or bus to the close-by garden cities of Hangzhou and Suzhou are easy, inexpensive getaways.GETTING AROUND :The good news is that although most Shanghainese speak only their own local dialect and the national dialect of Mandarin Chinese, street signs and maps in subway stations include both Chinese and English, or Romanletter (known here as pinyin ) names.As for city buses, though they are cheap at just one to two yuan (15 to 30 US cents) and sometimes convenient, many have been rerouted in very circuitous ways due to construction. It might not be worth the bother.GOOD EATING :Shanghainese dishes tend to be relatively sweet and rich, without the stronger, hotter flavours of northern and western China. One highlight is xiaolongbao , dumplings plump full of piping hot, succulent juice bite carefully.Locals swear by the Nanxiang Xiaolongbao outlet in the bazaar outside Yuyuan,but be prepared to wait in a long queue,even in the off hours, for a plate costing just a few dollars.Wujiang Road, which branches off of Nanjing Road, is a pedestrian street with a smorgasbord of options. Other filling and affordable choices include Cantonese dim sum, especially at any of the city's Bifengtang restaurants, Korean barbeque or Japanese set meals for well under US$10 a head.

GLOBAL TOURISM OPERATORS TO FLOCK TO CHINA FAIR

       Tourism operators from around the world are set to join the annual PATA Travel Mart in Hangzhou from September 22-25, with Thailand intending to win back Chinese visitors.
       Altogether 591 sellers from 38 countries and 305 buyers from 51 countries including Thailand have confirmed their attendance at the tourism mart to be organised by the Pacific Asia Travel Association (PATA).
       Chairwoman Phornsiri Manoharn yesterday said China was ranked as the fifth-strongest source market globally by the World Tourism Organisation, as measured by tourism-related expenditures. That means there is no doubt operators will be in the right country at the right time this year.
       More than 4.2 million Chinese travelled to Southeast Asian countries last year. Singapore gained the most, with nearly 1 million visitors. However, the figure was down due to the global economic crisis and type-A (H1N1) influenza.
       CEO Greg Duffell said Chinese arrivals to the Kingdom during the first half dropped 38 per cent year on year, due to political issues.
       However, tourism here and in other countries would recover soon and operators hoped to reclaim customers from China and also other markets, he said.
       Some of the new participants this year include tourism ministers from Tonga and Vanuatu.
       Suparerk Thongsuk, deputy managing director of Fair House Villa and Spa Samui, said it would be first time for the hotel to join the event and that he expected to draw interest from China and other short-haul markets.
       Luzi Matzig, CEO of Bangkok-based Asia Trails, said it was an opportunity to discover a new and most interesting destination, which most operators do not know about yet, and also to network with existing clients and secure new ones.
       "I expect our company to meet with many first-time participants at the Pata Mart for further deals," he said.
       Alison Partridge, president of Canada's Proof Positive Solutions, said attendees were decision-makers from every corner of the world and that they were there to do business.
       Akbar Shareef, CEO of Pakistan's Rakaposhi Tours, said the company had prescheduled appointments that some of the other travel exhibitions do not have even though they are bigger in size and in number, so it was a chance for local sellers to exhibit in greater numbers.
       Bob Malcolm, managing director of Australia's Travel Masters, said he wanted new relationships with product providers to be established that would hopefully be mutually beneficial over time.

Tuesday, September 15, 2009

VIKING INVASION EXPECTED IN HIGH SEASON

       The tourism industry will receive a big boost in the upcoming high season, as major travel agency TUI Nordic has sold 60 per cent of its winter packages for Thailand to Scandinavian travellers.
       CEO and managing director Christian Clemens said despite the economic slowdown, Finnish and Scandinavian travellers remained interested in coming to Thailand, particularly in the winter.
       They spend Bt8,000 to Bt10,000 per day per head on an average stay of 14 days.
       From December 15 to next March 5, the company plans 34 chartered flights a week for Phuket, bringing in 120,000 travellers. Clemens said most of the available tour packages had been sold.
       He attributes this success to "product quality", with many luxury hotels here scaling back their room rates 10 per cent from the same period last year.
       Thailand is a popular destination for travellers from Finland and the scandinavian countries of Sweden, Norway and Denmark.
       However, Clemens said they generally came to Thailand only in the winter. Only recently has Turismo Asia, TUI Nordic's agent here, in cooperation with the Tourism Authority of Thailand, successfully convinced some Finns and Scandinavians to spend time in Phuket during the summer months instead of on the Mediterranean Coast.
       He said traffic to Thailand next summer should increase 10 per cent year on year to 16,000 visitors.
       Last year, TUI Nordic sold 99 per cent of its summer packages.

       They spend Bt8,000 to Bt10,000 per day per head on an average stay of 14 days.

Monday, September 14, 2009

Scandinavians to return on back of strong currencies

       More Scandinavian tourists will return to Thailand in the coming high season as their currencies are getting stronger,says TUI Nordic, a tour operator in Scandinavia.
       To accommodate an increasing number of tourists, the company will lease a Boeing 767 from Thomson Airways, its sister company in Britain, bringing its feet to four, said Christian Clemens, CEO of TUI Nordic.
       It also expects to bring a total of 120,000 tourists from Scandinavia to Phuket and Krabi, up from 110,000 planned earlier this year. The new projection will be on par with the number in 2007 when the economy was good.
       The extra Boeing 767 will operate between Dec 15 and March 5, with 34 flights per week to Phuket and Krabi.
       "Despite the global recession, we still see a great interest in Thailand this coming winter and we have by now sold more than 60% of tour packages," Mr Clemens said.
       TUI Nordic's partner hotels in Thai-land are helping by offering attractive prices 10% lower than last year's rates.
       Mr Clemens said both the Swedish and Norwegian currencies had appreciated against the baht and this would help raise tourists' purchasing power when travelling to Thailand.
       August and September are typically difficult months for TUI Nordic, which has to offer heavy discounts. With the discount offers, the volume of tourists will stay at about 15,000 during the twomonth period this year."We also have put a lot of effort into convincing cus-tomers who used to travel to the Mediterranean during the (Scandinavian)summertime to choose Phuket. We are dependent on the close co-operation with local authorities to successfully establish Phuket as a year-round destination," he said.
       TUI Nordic predicts that the global economy will recover next year. However,it will monitor conditions before deciding whether it should raise its prices. However, it believes that when the time is right, service fees and room rates will return to normal levels.
       In 2011, the parent company TUI Travel will deploy 26 more Boeing 787 aircraft and some will fly from the UK directly to Thailand. As a result, the group will bring 50% more tourists from the EU. The aircraft will be delivered in 2011.
       Normally a Scandinavian tourist stays about two weeks and spends 8,000 to 10,000 baht daily for accommodation and other needs. TUI Nordic consists of three businesses - a scheduled airline,a charter airline and the number-two tour operator in Scandinavia, mainly selling overseas holidays.

Sunday, September 13, 2009

AT HOME IN THE FOLK MUSEUM

       The weather in Bangkok these days is very predictable. Every weekday at about 6pm, seemingly on cue when everyone is packing up to head home, dark clouds fill the skies, thunder begins to rumble and that seemingly never-ending rain starts to fall. As awful as this occurrence is, at least it gives us a predictable pattern doesn't it? Weekday evenings equal rain, so weekend daytimes equal sunshine? That was the silly presumption I had last weekend when the sky (at least part of it) seemed clear enough around noon that I felt it would be a great day to venture out and visit the Bangkok Folk Museum in Bang Rak. And of course, the minute I parked my car and headed inside, it started to rain, trapping me inside this small compound of old Thai houses that has been converted into a museum.
       The houses used to belong to Waraporn Surawadee, who decided to showcase all the ancient items handed down to her from her mother, Sa-Ang Surawadee, so people can get a sense of what a middleclass home in Bangkok was like around the time of World War Two.
       Now owned and run by the Bangkok Metropolitan Administration, the museum features three houses in a breezy garden with a small pond. The two-storey house in front was formerly the residence of the Surawadee family, and was built in 1937.The various rooms in the house give an obvious sense of how much influence Western culture had on Thailand during that period, with wine and martini glasses sitting neatly in a display case in the dining room and an antique gramophone in the main hall. The house also features an oldfashioned Western-style toilet, a Europeanstyle dressing room, as well as a bedroom that features a wooden four-poster, canopydraped bed.
       The house towards the back of the compound was actually built in Soi Ngam Duplee and was intended to be the residence of Dr Francis Christian, a British-born Indian doctor who was married to SaAng. Sadly, Christian died before construction was completed in 1927. However, it still holds many of the doctor's belongings.As the family converted this compound into a museum, funds began to dry up, so they sold the land in Soi Ngam Duplee and moved the house over piece by piece,to be reconstructed in its present location.There are several interesting devices in this building, including an old set of scales with an inverted gauge that is reflected in a mirror so the person standing on them can see how much they weigh.
       The ground floor of the third and final house to the right of the compound features hundreds of household items from yesteryear, including cookers and kitchenware,pens and old trunks and suitcases.
       A real treat awaits on the second floor,where the BMA has set up a permanent exhibition tracing the background of this district, which was once one of the most important ports, dating back to the Ayuttaya kingdom. There are displays of notable areas in the vicinity, such as Soi Sala Daeng,Silom and Sathon roads, and Charoen Krung Road, Bangkok's oldest street. Some of the most important figures that have shaped the history of Bang Rak are also featured, including former harbour master Captain John Bush, who had a soi named after him, Soi Capt Bush, now renamed Charoen Krung Road Soi 30.
       The Bangkok Folk Museum, also known as the "Bangkokian's Museum" is an excellent spot to get a glimpse of what life was once like in Bangkok and serves as an informative starting point for anyone looking to explore one of the city's most storied and historically significant districts near the Chao Phraya River.

Tuesday, September 8, 2009

Fee limits considered

       The government is mulling including medical and tutorial fees on the price control list as consumers are claiming their charges are exaggerated.
       But private industry representatives argue that the proposal is expected to run through a lengthy debate, particularly for private medical services as they are made available on a voluntary basis.
       Vatchari Vimooktayon,deputy director-general of the Internal Trade Department, said the secretary of the Central Commission on Prices of Goods and Services will suggest relevant ministers consider and approve the two services being included on the price control list.
       "Consumers are complaining the inflated medical and tutorial fees are exorbitant," said Mrs Vatchari."We need to closely monitor these sectors, particularly medical fees charged by private hospitals, as consumers are deeply affected by economic hardship."
       Fees charged by private tutorial schools are also unfair as many schools have opted for video systems instead of hiring school teachers, she said.
       The Internal Trade Department has 39 product and service items on its price control list, which means producers and service providers must provide details of production costs and proposed price changes to the ministry.Thirty-eight of the products are basic goods such as rice, cooking gas, shampoo, soap, condensed milk, fertiliser,detergent, steel and iron, with just one service: music distribution rights.
       Chalerm Harnphanich, chief executive of SET-listed Bangkok Chain Hospital (KH), which operates Kasemrad Hospital, said Thailand offers basic health care through the 30-baht universal health-care scheme for the public,the social security fund for corporate employees and free medical services for state enterprises.
       It is unnecessary to place medical services offered by private hospitals that customers voluntarily pay onto the price control list, he said.
       Operating and investment costs for each hospital are also completely different, making the pricing structure vary for each operator, Dr Charlerm said.
       "This is not a matter of cheap or expensive," said Dr Chalerm."It's rather a matter of choices, and we think the government itself needs to develop public medical services to be on par with private hospitals to meet people's expectations so they can have confidence in treatment."
       Anusorn Sivakul, president of the Tutorial Schools Association, defended the tutorial fees by licensed tutorial institutes as controlled by the Education Ministry, which has already come up with clear guidelines and criteria for operation cost, number of students per class, and profit of not more than 15%.
       There are about 1,700-1,800 licensed tutorial schools, charging an average of 20-50 baht per hour.
       "We think the complaints may come from unlicensed tutorial schools which now outnumber the licensed ones,"said Mr Anusorn.
       "But more importantly, we recommend the Commerce Ministry consult with the Education Ministry first on what the general practices of the tutorial schools are."

Sunday, September 6, 2009

"Buy Thai" drive eyed to lift exports

       Tourists in foreign markets will be tempted with Thai-made goods in a new strategy to boost exports.
       Tourists overseas will be offered Thai food, clothes and souvenirs in the hope they prefer Thai tourist-style goods over the goods from the country they are in,Department of Export Promotion director-general Rachane Potjanasuntorn said yesterday.
       The tourist drive is one of five strategies hatched to boost exports in the next year, Mr Rachane said.
       The Commerce Ministry expects the value of exports this year to contract by 15% to 19% from last year's total worth of US$177.8 billion (6 trillion baht).
       Exports have increased gradually over the past three months compared to the same time last year.
       Exports will remain in the red for the whole year, although if the increase in orders carries on, by next year exports could grow by 12% to 15%, the ministry said.
       Mr Rachane said the first strategy calls for exporters to target tourist spots which attract more than 10 million tourists a year, and where visitors are likely to be attracted to Thai goods, such as Hawaii and Okinawa.
       Other aims set for the industry were to increase the share of food and agriculture exports from 17% to 19% of total exports, promote better logistics among Asean countries, create a "one stop export service", and open Thai goods distribution centres in all regions of the world.
       Cabinet has given the department 2.9 billion baht for the plan, Mr Rachane said.
       Exporters were expected in the next year to sell more goods to new markets in China, India, Middle East, Africa and the Commonwealth of Independent States.
       One strategy for the Asean market is to push Thailand as an Asean fashion hub. Mr Rachane said he was worried about the impact on exports of rising oil prices, a stronger baht and trade barriers,which would increase costs.
       But Mr Rachane believed that with the recovery in the global economy under way, Thai exports would also improve.

At least 22 hotels on the block - Colliers

       The slump in Thailand's tourism industry has resulted in at least 22 hotels in Bangkok worth a combined 17 billion baht being offered for sale, according to Patima Jeerapaet, managing director of the property consultant Colliers International Thailand.
       One of the properties on the block is valued at around 3 billion baht while the average price is 800 million. Sizes and locations vary but include some in the inner city and by the Chao Phraya River.
       Mr Patima said the asking prices that used to be higher than market values were now climbing down closer to what buyers were offering, but few deals have been sealed.
       "Actually, there are many buyers hunting for hotels to take over but most of them are trying to bargain the prices in light of the economic downturn,"he said.
       Hotel owners are unable to reduce the prices as much as buyers have asked,as they have debts to repay and expect satisfactory returns.
       Mr Patima said most property deals completed in the second quarter were office buildings, condominiums and serviced apartments.
       Major transactions totalled five projects with a total sales value of 2.08 billion baht.
       He said many hoteliers wanted to sell because occupancy had slipped below the levels they needed to stay liquid and service loans.
       Some banks needed to get in-Average volved in dealing with new investors to buy the hotels the banks had financed, he added.
       "Some hotel owners have not even paid the hotel licence and management fees and needed to withdraw their international hotel brands. Some have not only hotel businesses but other businesses to maintain instead."
       Mr Patima said Thai investors had strong potential to make acquisitions.Some of them, liquor tycoon Charoen Sirivadhanabhakdi in particular, continued investing in hotels overseas. Such investors looked for reasonable prices and were less concerned about the brand of the management group.
       "Some well-known hotels that have
       collected knowhow from international chains can set up their B800m
       own brands and make them wellestablished and acknowledged. They plan to branch out to overseas destinations," said Mr Patima, mentioning Anantara owned by SET-listed Minor International as an example.
       "This will become a new trend in the Thai hotel industry."
       Meanwhile, Thai hoteliers who are building their own brands have potential to sell the brands internationally and have funds to invest overseas. They include Dusit Group which is now in many countries, Central Group's Centara and the Charanachitta family's Amari.
       Many other Thai hotel brands have improved their reputation in recent years. They include Furama, owned by the Thai-Indian Chansrichavala family's Unico group; Lub-d Bangkok Hostel owned by Narai Hotel; S15 Sukhumvit Hotel and S31 Sukhumvit Hotel, owned by Peep Inn Group, said Mr Patima.
       Properties in neighbouring countries also have some appeal. Thai Nakorn Pattana Co, the producer of Tiffy brand paracetamol, has invested in developing a hotel and golf course, the Sofitel Phokeethra Royal Angkor Golf & Spa Resort in Siem Reap, Cambodia. It also plans to open the Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra in May 2010.

THE LAND OF SMILES

       In Thailand you will find an exhilarating mix of food, culture, attractions and landscapes. If seeking a wealth in interesting and unique experiences, then a trip here is not complete without visiting a few of the jewels in the crown.Whether you negotiate the concrete jungle that is Bangkok, play on the beautiful beaches to the south or explore the mountains and valleys surrounding the northern capital Chiang Mai, this wonderful country offers a little taste of everything.
       Formerly the epitome of the steamy Asian metropolis, in recent years Bangkok has gone under the knife and emerged as a rejuvenated starlet, defiantly daring people to guess her age. Her wrinkles haven't all been erased, but you might not notice them in the ever-expanding and efficient public transportation system,airconditioned mega-malls and internationalstandard restaurants. A diverse international community, a burgeoning art scene and a new airport complete the new look, making even frequent visitors wonder what happened to the girl they once knew.
       But don't take this to mean that there's no "real" Bangkok left. The Royal Palace and Wat Phra Kaeo still sparkle just as they did more than 200 years ago. You can still taste classic Bangkok cuisine in the shophouses of Bang Lamphu, and the Skytrain and the underground have had little impact on the canal-side houses of Thon Buri. The traditional framework that made this city unique is still very much alive and kicking, and can be found a short walk from any Skytrain station or probably just around the corner from your hotel.
       By contrast,the mist-shrouded mountains of Chiang Mai province have long enticed visitors to explore this southern slice of the great Himalayan mountain range. Initially drawn north by tales of elephants and vine-filled jungles, visitors are pleasantly distracted by the gateway city of Chiang Mai, a laid-back cultural capital.
       Further piquing the imagination are the minority tribes who live among the highaltitude valleys, struggling to maintain their ethnically independent identities. The province straddles one of Asia's great crossroads - a southern spur of the Silk Road fusing commerce and culture between points further north and west in moder-
       day China, Laos and Burma. Ancient caravan traders dealt in opium, silk and timber.
       Today, only silk remains a legal commodity and the horse-drawn conveyances are merely historical legends. Instead the province has adapted to the expectations of a modern marketplace. Chiang Mai is among Thailand's largest cities, though it retains the charm of a small town, and it
       functions as the north's principal hub for tourism, transport, education and cross border commerce.
       Exploring the mainland is like opening a clock - cracking the facing reveals what makes the region tick under the ambient holiday veneer. Underneath is a rowdy and raucous burg that clangs to the sound of incoming traffic, outgoing produce and haggling in the crowded local markets.Even a trip to one of Thailand's island beaches will not let you escape the buzz completely, but the urban soundtrack mixes the rhythmic lapping of the tides with the muezzin's call to prayer.
       Thailand's beaches offer yet another side to this diverse and beautiful country.Artfully mixing nature with beach culture you might never fully escape the hum of humanity that is this tourist mecca, but in many ways exemplifies what Thailand is about.
       An incredibly diverse country that has held tourists spellbound from time immemorial and shall continue to do so for generations to come.
       2008 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd.All rights reserved. For more information
       visit www.lonelyplanet.com.
       This is an edited extract from 'Thailand'(13th edition),by China Williams ฉ Lonely Planet Publications, 2009.

Friday, September 4, 2009

BANK RESCUES TOURISM FIRMS

       Thanks to liquidity provided by the Small and Medium Enterprise Development Bank (SME Bank), several small tourism businesses have been able to continue operating.
       The bank's spokesman Vichaya Vitheethum said yesterday that 1,237 small and medium tourism operators had been given loans worth a total of Bt2.09 billion.
       Of the total loans, Bt633 million was allocated to 217 companies under the Thai Hotels Association, Bt563 million to 481 members of the Thai Restaurant Association, Bt438 million to 204 members of the Association of Thai Travel Agents and Bt463 million to 335 firms under the Tourism Council of Thailand.
       He added that the bank had also extended five-year-long soft loans at the rate of 5 per cent to small resorts so they could survive. So far, a total of Bt2.04 billion has been given to 100 resort operators.
       Meanwhile, the Standard Chartered Bank (Thailand) filed a lawsuit against the SME Bank on Wednesday demanding a compensation of Bt323 million, saying the SME Bank had failed to pay the interest and fines for 18 months over the issuance of the Floating Rate Certificate of Deposit (FRCD).
       Earlier, the SME Bank had announced that the FRCD deal had been nullified but the foreign bank refused to accept this. This is the third time that the Standard Chartered Bank (Thailand) has sued the SME Bank on the FRCD issue.
       In 2006, the SME Bank issued US$300 million (Bt10.24 billion) worth of FRCD and asked the foreign bank to cover the risk. Later, however, SME Bank decided to nullify the contract.

Modern take on ancient cultural link

       Vendors at outdoor markets tout saris, five-star hotels feature Indian chefs and Thais drop by a temple in the financial district to beseech Hindu gods to send profits their way.India pops up in unexpected places in the Thai capital, with the country's ancient Hindu civilisation influencing the Thai language, classical dance and religious architecture.
       An estimated 140,000 of the city's 10-plus million residents have roots in modern India, making their presence amply felt in Bangkok's hotels,markets, tailor shops, the gem trade, cricket leagues and contemporary art galleries.
       "It's a little-known Indian diaspora community compared to those in places like the United Kingdom or the United States, but perhaps equally influential," says Christopher Rego, a documentary film-maker who selected Bangkok as the starting point for a multimedia project on the world's Indian communities."It's like a microcosm of India's diversity."
       Indian influences appear all across this sprawling metropolis. Sukhumvit,an area popular with expats, has a plethora of Indian restaurants and major hotels operated by members of the Sikh community, many of whom have become extremely wealthy. In fact, large chunks of real estate in this area are owned by Thai-Indian people.
       On the other side of town, far from Sukhumvit's modern buildings and Western chain restaurants, Bangkok's official "Little India" borders the vast markets of Chinatown. The golden-domed Sri Guru Singh Sabha,believed to be the largest Sikh temple in Southeast Asia, towers over the Phahurat area, formerly an important centre for the textile trade.
       Rolls of cloth are still sold at Phahurat's Indian markets, along with Punjabi sweetmeats, sticks of incense, jewellery and the latest Bollywood hits on DVD. The setting is less intimidating than the much larger and labyrinthine Chinatown neighbourhood next door.
       Royal India, said to be Thailand's first Indian restaurant, is tucked away in a small alley in the heart of Phahurat, across the street from India Emporium, a modern, four-storey complex of shops. Bangkok's Indian community and foreign visitors alike occupy the restaurant's seven wooden tables where chicken masala and other traditional spice-laden dishes from northern India are served.
       The Sikh temple in Phahurat remains very much a community place of worship, but the Hindu temple across town is a true religious melting pot. Thais and Chinese pay respect to the Hindu goddess Uma Thewi at Sri Mahamariamman Temple off Silom Road. Next door, Chennai Kitchen prepares fresh vegetarian food characteristic of southern India.
       It was Tamil priests who built the temple near what is now Bangkok's main financial district. The current head priest is a fourth-generation Tamil immigrant, but many devotees are ethnic-Thai Buddhists who also worship Hindu gods on occasion.
       One of Bangkok's top tourist draws is the Erawan Shrine, built in 1956 to ward off problems which were plaguing the construction of an adjoining five-star hotel. Crowds flock daily to the resident golden image of Brahma,the four-faced Hindu deity, before which offerings of flowers are piled high and dancers decked out in ornate traditional garb are commissioned by devotees to perform in thanks for the granting of requests.
       Although some 95 per cent of Thais are Buddhist, many of them embrace elements of Hinduism as a result of cultural and religious influences which flowed across the Indian Ocean to reach Southeast Asia centuries ago.
       Khon , a classical Thai dance-drama which was once the sole preserve of the Siamese royal court, tells stories from the Ramayana, an ancient Hindu epic. Thai royal ceremonies are infused with Hindu-Brahmin rituals and many words in the Thai language were derived from Sanskrit.
       In more recent times, Tamils and Gujaratis migrated to Thailand in the late 1800s, trading in gems and textiles. Large-scale modern migration from northwestern India began in the 1890s, followed by a wave of Sikhs and Hindus from the Punjab.
       "We ourselves are Thais, but we have an Indian look," said Jesse Gulati,59, owner of a Ratchawong tailor shop, echoing many other members of his community. Gulati and his son Victor fill orders for international businessmen, visiting heads of state and diplomats.
       Gulati said his father migrated to Thailand in the 1930s, a move that actually strengthened the family's cultural and religious ties to India."We were more Sikh, more religious in Bangkok than the Sikhs in India were,"he noted.
       The tightly knit Sikh community began to really prosper at the outset of Thailand's tourist boom in the 1970s, renting apartments as well as building and running hotels. Many of Bangkok's Indian communities,including the Sikhs, have now seen their third or fourth generations grow to adulthood in Thailand. Assimilation adds another chapter to the cultural narrative of Bangkok's India.'Some youth are becoming Westernized, living in Bangkok," Gulati said, without a trace of irony. And Thai-Indian marriages, once a rarity, are now more common as Thais shed some once strongly held prejudices against immigrants from the subcontinent who are still commonly referred to as khaek (guests)."The third generation is more accepted by Thai people," said Asha Sehgal, a second-generation Thai-Indian. At Indus, a hip venue run by Asha's son Sid, Thais, Indians and other expats dine against a backdrop of traditional and contemporary art which Asha imports from India.Bangkok, an international foodie paradise, is warming up to Indian cuisine, and Indian DJs no longer play to exclusively Indian audiences,says Sid Sehgal. Nat Tuli, owner of Gallery Soulflower, said shows by contemporary Indian artists which she organises in Bangkok are actually more popular among Thais and foreigners than ethnic-Indian youths.