A HIGHER CALLING

       With clean air, pristine forests and charming natives, Sikkim and Darjeeling win the heart of a die-hard urbanite
       We"re 2,500 metres up in the mountains of Sikkim, India, and our for-wheel-drive Toyota is navigating the narrow and rocky roads, a precarious drop down the steep mountainside just inches away from the wheels.
       Oh, and it's pitch dark and raining too. Because we're so high up, each time the lightning flashes, the pale faces of our group are clearly illuminated. There are six of us crammed along with luggage in this multi-purpose vehicle.
       A couple of white-knuckled hours later, we reach our destination- the Hee Tourist Lodge run by folks from a village called Hee Bermiok. There's no electricity but we are given candles-and at least we are out of the rain.
       Welcome to the world of northeast India's eco-tourism, I say silently to myself.
       This is day two of my visit to Sikkim, India's least populous state, and to Darjeeling, a district in neighbouring state West Bengal.
       Both places offer plenty of opportunities for travellers who want to experience the pristine natural beauty of the highlands and still do it in an eco-sensitive way.
       Booking at homestays like the Hee Tourist Lodge in Sikkim helps to sustain the livelihood of the local rural communities, most of whom practise organic farming and a lifestyle that aims to minimise impact on the eco-system.
       Chemicals are banned at their farms, as is slaughtering animals, while fishing in ponds is restricted and construction regulated. No house can be higher than two storeys and roofs must be painted green to blend in with the surroundings.
       Despite the long and sometimes nerve-racking rides ascending and descending the mountains, I'm soon won over by the panoramic vista of the Himalayan range, the nearest peak of which is the majestic 8,586m
       Mount Kanchenjunga, the third highest mountain in the world.
       I'm not much of and outdoors person, but it's hard not to be enamoured with the unsullied air, the early morning forest treks and the charm and friendliness of the locals, most of whom are from the various Nepali tribes inhabiting the area.
       Before Sikkim, our party spent the night at Darjeeling, world famous for its tea and the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway trains, built in 1879. It's also a Unesco World Heritage Site.
       Despite not being a morning person, I was lured from my bed at 4am by the promise of a blazing sunrise at Tiger Hill, the highest point in Darjeeling district at 2,600m. Greeting the rising sun as it spills over the Himalayan back-drop was an experience worth the finger-numbing 4-degrees Celsius.
       Another attraction in Darjeeling town is the Swiss Hotel, run by Indian eco-tourism tour operator Help Tourism. The quaint building, which started as a bakery built by a Swiss couple almost a century ago, also supports local farmers. The butter, honey and vegetables used at this hotel are all locally produced.
       Less touristy is the Gurung Guest House, a homestay run by the Gurung family from the village of Tinchuley, 32km from Darjeeling's town centre.
       "We humbly ask our guests to maintain silence and enjoy the nature," says a sign in the cosy lodge, which is surrounded by organic farms and colourful orchid and tulip nurseries that are well worth visiting.
       An even more remote lodge in Darjeeling district is the Neora Valley Jungle Camp in the Village of Kolakham, also set up by Help Tourim, 80km from Darjeeling town. A measure of its isolation is the lack of electricity; villagers who own mobile phones have to travel 9km to charge them at the nearest power supply.
       While some might feel queasy at the thought of no electricity to charge their modern gadgets, I soon discovered a more immediate source of unease:My cosy cabin overlooked a 500m drop to the village of Kolakham below.
       Towards the end of my trip, my body felt in fine form after all the organic vegetarian fare - rice, daal, potatoes, peas, cauliflower and crispy poppadums. Thanks to the cool mountain elimate, the treks were not as strenuous as I initially feared.
       Plus, it was good to know that despite the massive carbon footprint incurred in flying there, my respect-even awe - for nature had been restored.
       Tourists can also help to sustain the local communities by channelling expenses straight to them.
       Looking back, I would do the scary drive again too. After all, what is a mountain adventure without any risks?