Saturday, October 31, 2009

Phayao's flying lanterns

       As the nation celebrates the Loy Krathong, Phayao will mark the event with Yi Peng or lantern festival, from tomorrow to November 3 at the main lake in provincial town.
       The lantern festival and Loy Krathong differ in that the former is celebrated by releasing lighted lanterns into the sky at night, while the latter involves release of krathong floral floats into rivers and canals. Some 10,000 lanterns will be released on the first three days of the festival, featuring light and sound show,live music, sale of OTOP products, local delicacies and Nang Noppamas beauty pageant. For further details, call its PR office at 054-449-704.

Pride of place for Koh Phithak

       Koh Phithak, a small fishing community in Chumphon's Lang Suan district, is the most admired homestay destination in Thailand, according to a survey by the Tourism Development Office.
       The island off mainland Chumphon was a hideout for pirates and criminals until the 1870s and without a name.It wasn't until 1943 that it's given a name and registered as a fishing village.
       Fifteen homes on the island have opened their doors to tourists to whom they offer activities such as boat rides around Koh Pithak and nearby islands, snorkelling,a taste of their daily lifestyle and how to catch fish and bait squids.
       In addition to Koh Phithak, other homestay destinations featuring in the survey's top-10 list are Ban Pho in Mukdahan, Koh Ket in Kalasin, Ban Tham Phung in Surat Thani, Ban Rim Klong and Tha Kha in Samut Songkhram, A Homestay on Koh Muk, Trang and Thong Tom Yai in Chumphon.
       Disability no bar
       The Institute of Health Promotion for People with Disability has joined hands with Chulalongkorn University to introduce a tourism programme for senior citizens and physically handicapped people.
       The programme is listed in a book titled Living Life complete with maps. It cites five routes - BangkokChon Buri-Rayong, Bangkok-Nakhon Ratchasima-Nakhon Phanom, Bangkok-Chiang Mai-Chiang Rai, BangkokNakhon Pathom-Kanchanaburi, and Bangkok-Song KhlaNakhon Si Thammarat - that are travel friendly to elderly people and those with disability, together with a list of accommodations and restaurants.
       Visit www.thaihealth.or.th or call 02-298-0500 for details.
       Late boomers
       Tour operators and the Tourism Authority of Thailand have compiled a list of 13 tourist spots around the country that have experienced a tourism boom in recent years.
       Top of the list are the Sino-Portuguese buildings in Phuket's old quarter. Dating back more than a century these buildings, under which sit quaint shophouses, are outstanding for their unique mix of Chinese and Portuguese architecture.
       Other attractions on the list are Pai in Mae Hong Son,the Chiang Mai Zoo, Bang Namphung floating market in Samut Prakan, Khaosok National Park in Surat Thani, a hot waterfall in Krabi, Ban Wat Chan in Chiang Mai,Kathu Mining Museum in Phuket, the old Wat Kate community in Chiang Mai, the century-old Ang Sila in Chon Buri, Tha PomKlong Song Nam nature trail in Krabi, Phi Hua To cave in Krabi noted for its pre-historic paintings and the Office of Agricultural Extension and Development in Krabi.
       A shot in the arm
       The government has set aside almost 150 million baht to renovate three tourist spots in Suphan Buri and Phichit.
       The allocation is part of the government's "Thai Khem Kaeng" initiative to boost and strengthen tourism in the provinces.
       Some 46 million baht will go to beautification of the Suphan Buri city shrine and its surrounds, and used for building a fence around the shrine, a drainage system and a facility for sale of OTOP products, while Bung Chawak public park will receive 40 million baht to install a garbage incinerator, a bio-fertiliser plant and for park upkeep and expansion.
       Bung Si Fai, the country's third largest lake and home to more than 100 bird species, in Phichit Province has been allocated 60 million baht, to be spent on boosting its profile and appeal among tourists.
       Online bookings up
       Online travel agency bookings in Asia Pacific has grown 34 per cent compared to last year, according to Amadeus,a provider of IT solutions for tourism and travel industry.
       "Travel agencies need to evolve in line with this trend and leverage the Internet to their advantage," said Amadeus' director for Asia Business Solutions Olivier Froger.
       To promote online bookings among travel agencies,the company has launched an upgraded version of its Agency Internet Engine (AAIE) solution that is customised for the Asian region.
       Called AAIE (Asia), it allows travel agencies to align content and other applications such as profiles or midoffice functions with their web sites and customise the web site with functions of hotel booking and car rental service.
       It also has options for online payment by credit cards,PayPal, AsiaPay and also has a graphical seatmap function enabling travel agents' customers to select their seats online.
       Lufthansa relaunch
       Lufthansa will relaunch on-board broadband Internet service on long-distance flights in the middle of next year after suspending it three years ago due to weak demand.
       Called FlyNet, the service allows passengers to use laptop computers or smart phones such as iPhone and BlackBerry to read email, access web sites and send SMS mid-flight, thanks to a satellite-based technology provided by Panasonic of Japan,
       "In terms of communications, Lufthansa customers can look forward to a top-tier inflight service," said Wolfgang Mayrhuber, its CEO and chairman."On longhaul routes, we offer business travellers, in particular, a range of communications options on par with those available at powerful hotspots or upmarket hotels."

Wednesday, October 21, 2009

Facebook to boost tourism

       Tourism should take advantage of social networking as a tool to attract new visitors while carefully monitoring bad corporate image, said the president of the Tourism Technology Association (TTA).
       Apichai Sakulsureeyadej, president of the TTA, said that the increasing popularity of social networking sites like Facebook and Twitter as well as using YouTube and blogs as marketing tools allows tourist to share their experiences and suggestions about the country.
       Currently, at least 50 percent of travellers do their research over the Internet prior to embarking on their trip. Many of these travellers also plan, book, and pay through various websites. The rate of online information for users and buyers of tourism products is increasing at an alarming rate. Around 80 percent of those tourists who use the Internet use social network sites.
       Use of social networking sites is going beyond normal e-marketing that uses the Web as a new channel to sell or send email marketing. So if the country uses networking sites it will be easier to reach those travellers and have a beneficial effect on Thai tourism.
       For example, if a tourist takes pictures of a beautiful place and posts the photos on Facebook and connects with their network of friends, those pictures may be more effective than if the TTA or the hotel operators had posted them.
       There are successes in some countries that already use social networking sites such as Australia. Activities on Twitter and Facebook are getting those who have visited Australia to talk and tweet about their experiences.
       Moreover, new research by academics at Bournemouth University in the UK showed that Information Acquisition obtaining up-to date information - was found to be the most influential factor for users of tourist social networks, followed by Social-Psychological factors such as seeking identity, forming relationships and seeking a sense of belonging, and hedonistic benefits including having fun with content, entertainment and being amused.
       The research was carried out on Internet users in South Korea, which has one of the largest populations of Internet users in the world.
       However, the country and tourism operators should be aware of carefully monitoring feedback and responding to negative opinions rather than ignoring and deleting negative views.
       Early next year the TTA will collaborate with the National Statistics Office (NSO)on the first "National ICT for Tourism Survey" done within Thailand. Apichai believes that the information will give the ICT industry a better idea on which areas of technology to focus when catering to the tourism industry.
       It will be easier to transform the tourism industry to become a knowledge and information rich industry, giving the operators in Thailand the edge over competition from other countries in marketing, internal management, service levels and technology-savvy staff.
       "In today's economic environment,the tourism industry relies heavily on Information Technology. Technology is embedded within every stage of the travel life-cycle. It is important that the tourism operators have the knowledge of how technology can empower their businesses to do better,"Apichai said.

CHIANG MAI BANKING ON LOY KRATHONG

       The Loy Krathong festival in Chiang Mai should draw at least 30,000 tourists a day and Bt500 million in money circulating over its five-day stretch starting on October 31.
       Chalermsak Suranant, director of the Tourism Authority of Thailand's Chiang Mai office, said the economic recovery and the northern province's cultural attractions should whet the appetite of locals and foreigners to travel.
       Four and five-star hotels have already reported festival bookings of 70 per cent of available rooms, which is better than last year at the same time, and two more weeks are still left for the festival,he said.
       Boonlert Buranupakorn, president of the provincial administrative organisation, said all corners of the city would be decorated with flowers and on November 2 the city wil float three giant lanterns representing the three pandas living in Chiang mai Zoo.
       On the next day, visitors will enjoy a special fireworks show.
       Last quarter, the tourism in the province slowed, but the situation should recover this quarter, he said.
       "Tourism revenue should be close to last yea's level, with a slight upside or downside gain," he said.
       Last year, the province generated Bt38 billion in tourism incom, welcoming 5 million tourists, of whom 70 per cent were Thais.

Saturday, October 17, 2009

1,000 ULTIMATE EXPERIENCES

       One thousandideas, places and activities to inspire and entertain,for both travellers and lovers of life alike By Lonely Planet
       Lonely Planet's 1000 Ultimate Experiences will inspire travellers - armchair and actual - to start ticking off their own boxes of places they've always wanted to see and things they've always wanted to do, including:
       TOP PARKS AND RESERVES
       Forget just photographs - these mustsees are even more dazzling up close.
       Namib Naukluft National Park, Namibia
       The steaming sands of Namib Naukluft National Park are the most perfect stretch of desolate desert - even photographs of the windswept ridges elicit thirst. The dunes at Sossusvlei, commonly believed to be the oldest in the world, are the preserve's biggest draw. The forceful winds that swerve through the terrain have carved out hills as high as 300-metres. Strong thermal winds also make hot-air ballooning a popular way to discover the preserve from a different angle. From up in the air, the undulating terrain almost looks like the curling waves of an orange ocean.
       Banff National Park, Canada
       In a country so incredibly large, it comes as no surprise that everything at Banff National Park is supersized - foxes are foxier, bears are grizzlier and moose could be mistaken for furry school buses. The idyllic region was discovered in the late 1800s, during the building of the Canadian Pacific Railroad, and was quickly transformed into a nature preserve. Covering 6,641 square kilometres, the park is a natural wildlife corridor in the seemingly impen-etrable Rocky Mountains - visitors will often be treated to a parade of Canada's iconic beasts. At Banff , bear hugs are taken literally.
       Mungo National Park, Australia
       Over the last few decades, several places in Australia's legendary outback have become the top spots on many tourists' todo lists: Alice Springs, the Blue Mountains,even Uluru. Mungo National Park has somehowmanaged to fly under the radar.This quiet preserve, sheltered around clay mounds known as the Walls of China,whispers with a rich history of ancient lakes and roaming megafauna. Skeletal remains prove that humans thrived within the park's boundaries more than 40,000 years ago but today, Mungo's desert-like expanse is so deserted, that it's possible to glimpse the curvature of the earth.
       Khao Sok National Park, Thailand
       Welcome to Jurassic Park - you can almost hear the theme song playing in surround sound while you venture between the soaring limestone karsts. Add a prancing Tyrannosaurus rex and Thailand's first protected preserve would be a dead ringer for Crichton's prehistoric Disneyland. This dripping, juicy jungle is part of the oldest
       rainforest in the world, where snakes,monkeys and tigers lurk within the tangle of lazy vines. The park also features the world's largest flower, the Rafflesia kerrii ,which can reach more than 80cm in diameter. It has no roots or leaves of its own;instead it lives parasitically inside the roots of the liana plant.
       Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona, US
       Like a '56 Chevy or a Big Mac, the Grand Canyon is an American classic and undoubtedly the biggest "kick" on Route 66.The Grand Canyon's endless vistas of gorges and chasms are a favourite locale for geologists - the delicate history of the earth is locked in these myriad shelves of colourful rock. Those who descend into the wide earthen scars will uncover a semiarid terrain punctuated by hundreds of secret grottos. At the canyon's ultimate depth of 1.8km the planet's prehistoric landscape is revealed.
       Northeast Greenland National Park, Greenland
       In an age troubled by pollution and threatened by melting icecaps, Greenland's national park proves that the planet's glaciers haven't disappeared just yet. The biggest national park in the world, measuring roughly twice the size of France, is an unspoilt hinterland home to the polar bears and walruses that cavort between crystalline icebergs. The tiny town of Ittoqqortoormiit is the unofficial gateway into the silent, frigid kingdom. Visitors are limited to surveying scientists and extreme adventurers, but tours are available.
       2008 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd.All rights reserved. For more information
       visit www.lonelyplanet.com.
       This is an edited extract from Lonely Planet's '1000 Ultimate Experiences'ฉ Lonely Planet Publications,2009.

Wednesday, October 14, 2009

INSTABILITY KILLS OFF AUSTRALIAN PLAN FOR BT20 BN IN INVESTMENTS

       Jayco, an Australian member of the Elite Card scheme, has abandoned its Bt20-billion ecotourism and motor-home plans following internal troubles at Thailand Privilege Card, domestic political instability and the recent injunction on investment projects in Map Ta Phut. Soontaree Chanprasit, president of Aktiv Holding, said an authorised representative of Thailand Privilege Card, many Elite Card members had changed their minds about investing in Thailand, due to negative investment conditions.
       She said several more Elite Card members, mostly from Japan, Australia and Europe, had delayed real-estate development, mostly resort homes and condominiums.
       Soontaree said Jayco now planned to invest in ecotourism in China and Vietnam, while the motor-home business would go to China, due to the lower costs there, particularly for labour.
       The Australian firm is now putting up for sale the first plot of land acquired for the ecotourism project. The 40-rai plot is worth Bt100 million, Soontaree said.
       Jayco and T-sam, the parent company of Aktiv, earlier formed a joint venture called Thai Australian Capital.
       Jayco makes camper trailers. Its website says it is now one of the most recognised brands in Australia and that a Jayco is a "home away from home" for hundreds of thousands of Australians.
       She said Elite Card members had also cut down on their travel to Thailand, particularly from Japan and South Korea. However, as the tourism high season starts, more members from Europe are visiting the Kingdom.
       She added that the South Korean Embassy had expressed a desire to discuss with Tourism and Sports Minister Chumpol Silapa-archa the future of Thailand Privilege Card (TPC), the Elite Card operator.
       Chumpol is scheduled to fly to South Korea next month in a bid to woo back tourists.
       The government has not yet finalised the fate of TPC, which was established during the Thaksin Shinawatra administration to boost inward travel, activity and investment among high-spending foreigners.
       In return for an annual fee, Elite Card members are entitled to a package of benefits, including a multiple-entry visa.
       However, as the government tries to cut the benefits, the number of members has dwindled.

       "Jayco now plans to invest in ecotourism in China and Vietnam,while the motor-home business will go to China,due to the lower costs there,particularly for labour."

Sunday, October 11, 2009

HOLLYWOOD COMES TO BANGKOK

       An international star-studded event to promote Thailand's annual film festival, gems and tourism By Usnisa Sukhsvasti
       It was literally a red carpet night when Beauty Gems hosted a gala dinner at Chatrium Suites Bangkok in conjunction with the National Film Association.
       Titled "Hollywood Night in Bangkok", the evening was held to welcome actors attending
       the Bangkok Film Festival 2009, as well as to
       promote Thailand's gems industry as well as
       film and tourism industries.
       Among the Hollywood faces were RachelNichols (Scarlett in G.I. Joe: Rise of the Cobra ),Olivia Thirlby (Leah in Juno ) and Sung Kang Fast and Furious, Knight Rider, Forbidden Warrior Guests walked the red carpet in their full regalia of glittering jewellery, stopping en route to view Beauty Gems' latest Stars of Hollywood collection created specially for this event, with such evocative names as Chicago, Dream Girl and the highlight, Moulin Rouge, this last set being a diamond and ruby creation valued at 65 million baht.
       These and other sparkling baubles worth 500 million baht were finely presented by Thailand's leading models: Pi-chanat Sagakorn, Yosawadee Hasadeewichit, Marisa Annita,Pakaramai Potranant, Rasri Watcharapolmek and Michel Wagot.Security was tight, to say the least.
       During the dinner, which comprised an East-meets-West menu, guests also enjoyed a mini concert by Suthasinee "Pat" Buddhinan and Puvanart Kunplin, both of whom were splendidly accessorised by Beauty Gems as well.A few lucky guests went home with additional items to add to their jewellery boxes after winning the lucky dip.

Thursday, October 8, 2009

GROUP AIMS TO BOOST DOMESTIC TOURISM

       Nine domestic tourism associations and two related bodies have recntly formed the Federation of thailand Tourism Network Associatios to boost local tourism.
       "The establishment of FETTNA is a new hope to help members in the provinces survive amid the cirsis," Wirote sitaprasertnand, the federations' first president, said yesterday.
       The federation will strive to stimulate local tourism and work closely with tourism operators in Bangkok and upcountry, he said.
       The tourism industry has been struggling for years due to the economic turndown and political problems. Many opeators have already gone out of business, Wirote said.
       To rebuild domestic tourism, the federation will work with its members to create a strategic plan, which will be revealed on Wednesday.
       Some urgent measures are ncluded, such as a tourism fair, which is set to be held soon in order to help operators get customers, he said.
       Representatives of existing tourism associations are working for themselves, not really for the members, he said, adding that they are also involved in politics.
       "My federation will be free from politics as has been happening other associations," he said.
       The problems of the tourism industry have not been resolved bcause of the disarray between two big groups of tourism associations - the Thai Hotels Association and Association of Thai Travel Agents - and the Tourism Council of Thailand, he said.
       Both groups are working with government bodies to bring foreign tourists into the country rather than help international tourism.
       The 11 members of the federation are the Association of Thai Tour Operators, the Thai Tourism Promotion Association, the Professional Tourists Guide Association, the Tourist Transport Association, the Thai Travel Agents Association, the Thai Spa Association, the Thai Amusement and Leisure parks Association, the Association of Northern Tourism Federation, the Thai Boat Association, the Office of Tourism Media and Environment and the Fine Arts Faculty of Rajamangala University of Technology Phra Nakhon.

Monday, October 5, 2009

Abhisit flags tourism as new hope

       The government plans to overhaul the country's investment policy by replacing unwanted manufacturing projects with tourism developments, Prime Minister Abhisit Vejjajiva says.
       The move follows the Central Administrative Court's order last Tuesday suspending the operating permits of 76 projects, many of them in the Map Ta Phut Industrial Estate and nearby areas in Rayong.
       The government has appealed against the order to the Supreme Administrative Court.
       Mr Abhisit said on his weekly TV and radio programme yesterday the government had assigned the National Economic and Social Development Board to study which industrial projects the country did not want and look into the possibility of whether tourism projects could replace them.
       The impact of those scrapped projects on the economy and job creation would also be studied.
       Mr Abhisit said the government was trying to balance the interests between industrial developers and local communities.
       He said it was necessary for the government to appeal the court order regarding the industrial projects as it wanted to see what final guidelines the court would give for projects that have been granted government approval.
       Meanwhile Suthi Atchasai, a leader of the People's Eastern Network, yesterday denounced the government's decision to appeal the court ruling,saying the appeal was not appropriate as Map Ta Phut residents would be badly affected if the projects went ahead.
       Mr Suthi lashed out at the government for paying too much attention to the economy and industrial development and ignoring the plight of local residents living near the project sites.
       He vowed to lead local residents to Bangkok on foot to protest against the government's decision.
       He said unless the government changed its stand, his group would petition His Majesty against the government for failing to pay heed to the King's sufficiency economy concept.

Sunday, October 4, 2009

TAT GETS NEW CHAIRMAN THIS WEEK

       The search for both a governor and chairman for the Tourism Authority of Thailand is drawing wide attention, as the next leaders will have fully authority over spending of TAT's huge annual and extra budgets.
       Besides the nearly Bt5 billion annual budget earmarked for TAT over the years, comes Bt4 billion to Bt5 billion granted later each year. Some urgent financial assistance may also be added if a calamity strikes the tourism industry as has happened almost every year.
       The stakes are juicy enough to attract many people to contend for the positions and their financial clout.
       This year, TAT is shaken again as the organisation is in the process of filling the vacancies of governor and chairman.
       Altogether 10 outsiders and two insiders appear to be in the running for governor. One of the applicants will be carefully selected by January.
       Before getting the new governor, TAT will this week welcome its new chairman of the board, to be appointed by Tourism Minister Chumpol Silapa-archa.
       The last chairman, Weerasak Kowsurat, quit the board earlier.
       TAT's labour union has complained aloud that a group of politicians is standing behind the scenes.
       Union chief Prasert Vorapitak said politicians are trying to send their people to control the management of TAT and they may abuse their power.
       He said Chumpol on September 14 ordered the TAT board to shuffle five deputy governors, including transferring Auggaphol Brickshawana to an advisory role at TAT.
       However, Chumpol has denied the accusation and said the selection of the governor and chairman would be transparent. He also said he would not revoke the board's changes to the management team.
       More than 200 TAT employees last week stood up to support an internal candidate to be the next governor to prevent politicians from interfering in management.
       "The union has given a short timeframe for the board to revoke the decisions [on deputy governors]. It will retaliate if the board is silent about the calls," Prasert said.

TWILIGHT OF THE MATADORS

       In the Catalonian region of Spain, some are trying to put an end to what many regard as part of the local culture - bullfighting By Michael Kimmelman
       In Catalonia, a persistently separatistminded region of Spain, bullfighting has been in trouble for ages. And the economy hasn't helped. Ticket prices are akin to opera's. Fights are expensive to produce. The number of bullfights plummeted across Spain this year.
       But Jose Tomas still draws enormous crowds. For aficionados, he is the last best hope for toreo, as bullfighting is called.Reclusive, a matador of unearthly fearlessness and calm, steeped in history and mystery, he retired in 2002, at only 27 and at the height of his fame, only to return unexpectedly five years later in Barcelona for what turned out to be the first sell-out in 20 years at the 19,000-seat Plaza Monumental, the city's beautiful old brick-and-tile bullring.
       Last Sunday he was back, for another special occasion - perhaps the last bullfight ever in Catalonia.
       Over the last three decades or so, dwindling interest among young Catalans has combined with pressure from animal-rights advocates and from Catalan nationalists to cripple toreo in Catalonia. Across the region's four provinces, bullrings have closed; Barcelona's is the only one still active.
       Now a referendum before the Catalan parliament would end bullfighting altogether.There has long been talk in that part of Spain about a total prohibition on toreo. Fans have played it down. But this time, even aficionados think a ban is likely to pass.
       So Sunday's corrida - the term refers to an afternoon's regular card of three matadors and six bulls - was more than just the last bullfight of the season. It was possibly the end of an era. And Jose Tomas (Jose Tomas Roman Martin, but everybody knows him by his double-barreled first name) had come,in what seemed almost like a last-ditch attempt, to lend his box office appeal and artistry to the anti-ban side.
       Artistry, that is, to aficionados. There is the art of the ritual, ancient and colourful,with its sequence of movements, firmly established but, because the bulls always vary, different each time and entailing a kind of balletic grace on the part of the matadors,who are judged not least by whether they can make the bulls look graceful, too. Bullfighting is a matter of Spanish cultural patrimony, fans say. Europe may wish to come together around common social and economic interests, but national cultures must be respected, and toreo represents cultural diversity.
       Opponents see it otherwise, of course. A dozen or so animal-rights protesters stood outside the arena last Sunday, holding aloft handmade signs splattered with red paint.
       Up the street, at La Gran Pena, a bar favoured by aficionados, Isabel Bardon, the bar's owner, balanced a tray of beers while navigating a swarm of patrons, some craning their necks to see the retired matador, who was smiling for photographs beside older men smoking thick cigars."It would be bad news for me and my business," she speculated about the ban's possible approval.
       It might be, who knows? What's clear is that during the early years of the last century,Barcelona had no fewer than three bullrings.It was a mecca for aficionados. There were more corridas there from the 1920s to the 1960s than in any other Spanish city.
       But Catalan nationalists began to spread the notion that toreo was an imposition on Catalonia by Franco's fascist regime, which promoted it, like flamenco, as a patriotic symbol. Opposition to bullfighting became a declaration of separatism by other means.Animal rights came along and fueled the nationalists' agenda.
       That the issue remains, above all, political is demonstrated over the border, in the Catalan region of southern France, where bullfighting is embraced as fiercely as it is opposed in Spanish Catalonia, for exactly the same separatist reasons, in that case because it is banned in Paris.
       "At a point when Europe is becoming bigger and more multicultural, Barcelona is becoming smaller and more Catalan," is how Robert Elms, a British travel writer who has lived there, saw the situation. He came to see Jose Tomas and remarked, before the corrida,how the dark but magical city he once knew has become a shiny, designer-label hub that nonetheless looks increasingly inward.
       "It's vanity," he said "That's the only word.Vanity describes an insecure culture." The possible ban on bullfighting, he added, is akin to a law requiring schoolchildren to receive much of their education in Catalan,not Spanish.
       Paco March nodded at the mention of that connection. A Barcelona native, he is the bullfighting columnist for La Vanguardia ,the city's second biggest newspaper.
       "I feel rage that in the name of democracy,"Mr March said of the pending referendum,"a minority of opponents of toreo could erase the rights of another minority, aficionados, who are enjoying what is in this country a legal spectacle that expresses deep truths about life and death taken to their extreme."
       Aficionados point out how bullfighting makes death plain and visible at a time when most people, those who can do so, choose to put distance between themselves and the reality of it. Some of these same people condone factory farming by eating meat, but they condemn bullfights. Or they go to bullfights in places like Portugal, where the bulls are not killed by matadors. They're killed afterward, offstage, so nobody has to watch.
       To matadors, that's truly unfair, because it denies them their duty to the bulls, with whom they have fought, and spares them the particular vulnerability they are meant to experience at this point in the bullfight.
       Whether or not you buy this argument, it would be a mistake to conclude that an end to bullfighting there portends its prohibition across Spain. While nearly three-quarters of Spaniards say they have no interest in bullfighting, they're loath to have foreigners tell them what they can or can't do. Spain has consistently resisted pressure from the European Parliament and the European Court of Human Rights to end toreo. What will end it,if anything, is public indifference, competition from things like soccer and video games,and the passing of a generation of aficionados.
       And so, in the failing light of a warm early autumn afternoon, amid the bursts of flashbulbs and chants of "Torero!" and "Ole!",Jose Tomas appeared at least one last time in Barcelona, the standard-bearer for an afflicted art. He orchestrated his usual series of hair-raising passes with the bulls. Like Roger Federer, he makes every action look impossibly slow and stylish.
       "This artful corrida to end the season may have been the last in this plaza," lamented El Pais , the Spanish newspaper, the next morning."What a shame if politicians banned bullfighting here."
       Mr March, the bullfighting writer from La Vanguardia , put it more bluntly."We want to be different from the rest of Spain by not killing bulls," he said."But we're just killing off our own culture."

A TRADITIONAL WAY OF LIFE

       The joys of a peaceful existence by the waterways continues undisturbed By Suthon Sukphisit
       These days, floating markets seem to be getting a lot of promotion by the tourism people. These markets, with vendors paddling around in boats selling produce and prepared food, are open on weekends and are usually located fairly close to Bangkok. The Taling Chan floating market is not hard to reach after you cross the Pin Klao Bridge, the Bang Phueng floating market is within easy access via the Rama IX Bridge, and there are several others,like the Lamphya floating market in Nakhon Pathom and the Bang Khla market in Chachoengsao, that are only a short drive away.
       But when one considers how and to whom these places are being promoted, a question comes to mind: Does the lifestyle reflected in them, with people paddling around in boats to conduct their buying and selling transactions, still exist in Thailand, or is it only a colourful spectacle staged for tourists?
       The answer is that this way of living,making use of waterways for travel and other aspects of daily life, is still very much with us. Many large rivers, like the Chao Phraya and the Nakhon Chaisi, branch off into large and small canals that connect with each other to form networks, and all the land adjoining them was originally cultivated as orchards and crop fields.
       Farming is the traditional occupation of the Thai people, and one in which they have excelled for centuries. Boats were the only means of transport for conveying produce to markets and for travel. Selling food and other merchandise by boat was the best way to do business with people who lived next to the water, except that instead of paddling boats, over time motors were used for extra speed.
       Today, roads and lanes have been constructed to access the cultivated land, and more newly-built houses are erected next to them. But the people who live in them mostly prefer a modern lifestyle with jobs outside the area, to which they commute by car and other motor vehicles.
       Most of those who reside inside the agricultural zone still live by the water,however, and are accustomed to the way of life that goes with it. In these communities, people who have to commute to the city for work or school make the trip into town in long-tailed boats that leave from piers on rivers and canals and return home the same way.
       Those who stay at home and make their living from their orchards and fields still adhere to the old ways. In the early morning,the monks from the local temple make their rounds in small boats, and the local people go out onto the pier to put food into their alms bowls. Later in the morning,boats selling freshly-brewed coffee and sweet snacks appear. At noon and shortly after, there will be other vendors, selling noodles, fresh food like shrimp, pork, fish,chicken and vegetables, and dried goods for home cooking, along with other products grown or raised in the local farms.In the late afternoon and early evening,sweets and popular dishes like stewed duck
       ped phalo ) and stewed pork (moo phalo )will be offered.
       Visiting relatives and friends and running errands is easier by boat than walking out to the road to wait for public transport.There are many places, in fact, where there is no bus service available.
       In the afternoon, clothes are given a simple washing at home, and later in the evening people bathe at the edge of the canal. If they think the water might not be clean enough, they wash themselves a second time using water from the tap.Then, when the other members of the family return home from work or school,everyone eats supper together. They go to bed early and wake up early.
       As most of the families in these waterside communities have known each other for generations, when an important family event like a wedding or funeral is going to take place, they let each other know. Some of these functions, weddings, for example,are different now from what they were in the past. If the persons getting married are more comfortable with the more modern style of Thai culture, they may not want to have the ceremony and celebration held at home. Instead, the festivities will take place at a hotel or the location of an organisation that can arrange the wedding meal as a buffet or to jeen (Chinese-style banquet, where the guests seat at tables and are served a set menu of, usually, nine or 10 dishes).
       Funerals are still held at the local temple.All the local people consider it important to help with the ceremony or to express their sympathy. The temple pier becomes crowded with boats, and the men help with the ceremony itself while the women prepare food for the guests, usually khao tom (rice soup) with chicken or fish, and noodle dishes.
       The most important of these events is an ordination ceremony. Thais still consider it essential for young men to go into the monkhood, preferably before they commence working in a job or before getting married, since after that it will be difficult for them to find enough time. A young man who ordains for the duration of the Buddhist Lent, from Khao Phansa until Ogg Phansa , will remain in the monkhood for three months.
       An ordination is a major event for the family concerned. They will arrange lunch,to be served at the temple, for the monks and for their guests. All the food will be prepared by the local housewives in a kitchen set up right at the temple. A full array of dishes will be offered:Yam (sour-hot salads),khanom jeen nam phrik (fermented rice noodles in a sauce made from pureed mung beans and seasoning),kaeng kheow wan kai (a spicy, coconut cream-based curry with chicken meat),nam phrik kapi (a chilli dip made with kapi, or fermented shrimp paste) served with vegetables that might include feathery cha-om leaves or aubergine fried in egg batter, and fruit.
       When the invited guests arrive, they are given the food right away, served as a set of dishes called samrap in Thai, accompanied by glasses and pitchers of water and ice. The more the guests relax and enjoy the meal, the more honoured the family feels.
       One other event in which the whole community participates and helps out is the kathin ceremony, at which robes are offered to monks, usually before the start of Buddhist Lent. Here, again, a communal kitchen is set up, but the food is simpler,and may include khanom jeen with nam phrik or another spicy, coconut creambased, pureed fish sauce called nam ya ,kaeng kheow wan, and a spicy stir-fry,
       This life lifestyle is still very prevalent among farmers who live next to Thailand's rivers and canals. It flourishes in the Klong Orm area of Nonthaburi, in Bang Kruai,and along the Bangkok Noi, Mahasawat,Thaweewatana and Yong canals. All of these waterways connect with each other,and they can all be toured by boat.
       Taking the time to go and sample, and thereby get a feeling for, this simple and satisfying way of life is a most-satisfying experience for anyone drawn to Thai tradition. It is a central part of the country's culture that all the modernisation and change that has washed over us has left happily intact.

THE JOY OF TRAVEL

       ML Kalyakorn Kasemsri loves the adventure of seeing the world, and she wants
       to share it By Panpimol Krishnamra
       "I'm independent,down-to-earth,easy-going and I love to eat street food as long as it tastes good
       ML Kalyakorn Kasemsri, or Khem, whizzed through the door looking bright, energetic and amiable as always. Appearing relaxed in jeans and a T-shirt, the founder of the online magazine Worldtraveljoy.com was dressed as she often is on her working jaunts, minus the platform heels, of course.
       Perhaps the healthy glow comes from her lifestyle. The 36-year-old said:"I enjoy healthy living. It was how my mother raised me. I always eat fruit and vegetables. I don't drink sodas and coffee, but I do drink tea occasionally."
       ML Kalyakorn also enjoys exercising,but due to her schedule she chooses sports she can do alone, such as swimming and jogging. She works out for no less that two hours at a time, four times per week.
       During our interview it was apparent that ML Kalyakorn wanted to get one thing off her chest - her annoyance that some people pigeon-hole her in the category of "high-society person".
       "My ML title is an image, and I was born with it. I'm not at all snobbish. I love socialising and am very approachable and friendly. I'm independent, down-to-earth,easy-going and I love to eat street food as long as it tastes good," she said.
       Known for her adventurous spirit and active style, it was a fitting decision to launch the online travel magazine.
       "I dare say that it's Thailand's first and only bilingual online travel magazine,"she said.
       Worldtraveljoy.com is divided into four sections - where to go, where to eat,photo album and VDO clips. The website provides interesting and valuable information on a number of attractive travel destinations, all based on ML Kalyakorn's personal experiences. Among the travel tips are recommended hotels and restaurants, including their signature dishes.
       "I try to be neutral about my recommendations. I give both positives and negatives, because people have different tastes."
       The site has a photo album of each destination, as well as video clips showing highlights of each trip, such as the underwater world during a diving trip.
       ML Kalyakorn tries to make Worldtraveljoy.com a full-circuit information centre on travel. She explained:"The good thing about my website is that the videos serve as an archive that people can view all the time. Whenever anyone wants to go somewhere, they can always come visit my website. The information will always be there."
       She also organises first-class tour packages upon request. She explained:"You know how some people like their privacy and like to travel without a guide? So they ask me to arrange an itinerary for them. I give recommendations on accommodation,where to dine, what to do and more."
       The destinations she chooses to visit tend to be exotic."There are many things that people often overlook. I have a close group of friends that I travel with, but usually I'm very independent and often do things by myself," said the oldest of three siblings.
       "I am very adventurous and outrageous all the time," she confessed."Whenever I go diving, I always like to stay under longer than perhaps I should. In Malaysia, I was excited by the mating nudibranch, or sea slugs. I was taking pictures of them and I was separated from my diving group. I happened onto a rope and grabbed it because I knew it would lead me to the boat.But then it ripped, and that really scared me.
       "The current was very strong, and the visibility was terrible.
       "I couldn't even see my own hands under the water. It was very deep in the ocean. I was running out of oxygen and wanted to ascend right up, but I was afraid that my lungs would burst. It was the longest three minutes of my entire life. When I finally got to the surface I blew the whistle,but there was no boat in sight.
       "It's a good thing I wore a bright pink pair of fins. I took them off and started waving them around. It was then that the boat saw me and came to pick me up."
       She was rebellious as a 13-year-old, the leader of a gang at her Australian boarding school. Once she ordered her friends to catch some cockroaches and put them under the housemistress' pillow. Chaos ensued, she recalled.
       There is a much more feminine side to ML Kalyakorn, however. She loves to cook.Whenever she goes abroad she heads to a supermarket to buy cooking utensils and ingredients to bring back home.
       You wouldn't know it by her figure, but she also loves to eat. Her strenuous exercise regime keeps her slim.
       "I usually go on a trip once a month,"she said."I'm a pretty simple person. I wear jeans, T-shirt and sneakers on trips,but when I attend social functions in Thailand I put on a dress. I don't really have a fixed style. I like variety. This is why I can't work in an office."
       It's easy to see that her travels have left a deep impression. She said enthusiastically:"Oh, some countries are so peaceful! For instance, Tibet is a very peaceful country and people are content with what they have. You can totally feel the difference between people that live on the flat land and those up in the mountains. Those who live in the mountains are surrounded by nature, trees, blue sky and serenity.There's no sound of car engines or smell of exhaust pipes."
       As for Thailand, Krabi is often her choice for the scenic beach and ocean. She's been nine times.
       Another of her passions is design, which she studied at Middlesex University in the United Kingdom."When I stay at a hotel I love looking at its unique architecture and study its origin and history."
       She is a shareholder in Nama Company,a design business whose name translates to "raw" in Japanese.
       It means clean and simple, which equates to the company's style of work, ML Kalyakorn explained.
       Her role is in account management,meeting clients and throwing in ideas.
       "A lot of my input comes from my travelling, from the architecture and designs that I have seen. My travels turn into great ideas that I can present to my clients."

EXPERIENCE NEPAL

       In Nepal, the real entertainment is off way off the beaten track By Joe Bindloss
       Cresting the heights of the Himalaya, Nepal looms large in travellers' imaginations. And why not? Its well-developed tourist infrastructure and range of attractions mean that travellers can scramble up mountains, wander through rhododendron forests, seek spiritual solitude or get lost in vibrant festivals.Nepal offers a travel experience that can be challenging, calming or strenuous,depending on your whim. But whatever you choose to do, Nepal is never anything less than invigorating.
       ROCKY MOUNTAIN HIGHS
       Nepal may be home to mighty Everest,but you don't need the lungs of a Sherpa to tackle a trek in the Nepal Himalaya.With a range of trails at every conceivable degree of difficulty and distance, there is an opportunity for just about everyone to lace up their boots and experience the country as the Nepalis do - on foot.
       Everest base camp trek
       Appropriately enough, the trek to the base camp on the highest mountain on earth is a challenging trail taking you from the lowlands into the mighty Himalaya.
       Annapurna sanctuary trek
       A relatively short trek that packs a powerful punch as it takes in a breathtaking mountain amphitheatre of peaks and glaciers.
       Annapurna circuit
       The spellbinding valleys around Manang and Jomsom create a breathtaking backdrop on this ever-changing trek - one of the world's classic walks.
       Helambu trek
       Easily accessible from Kathmandu, and taking no more than eight days, the Helambu trek offers a great introduction to trekking in Nepal and is a good winter choice.
       Short treks from Pokhara
       Trekking needn't be a major undertaking.From Pokhara there are short treks to Ghachok, Chisopani and other spots.
       Teahouse trekking
       Whether you are huddled by a cosy lodge stove or soaking up the afternoon sun on a spectacular terrace, it's the warm, hospitable environment of Nepal's lodges that sets apart trekking in Nepal.
       Wet and wild
       There's more to do in Nepal's rugged mountainscapes and wide open spaces than just trekking.
       Hardcore adrenaline junkies, or anyone seeking adventure, can throw themselves into those fantastic plunging valleys, endless vistas and racing rivers, and the forests of the Terai offer a chance to spot a tiger or a one-horned rhinoceros.
       Rafting and kayaking
       There's a lot of water working its way down from Nepal's peaks, enough to keep keen rafters and kayakers occupied -and breathless with white-water exertion.
       Bungee jumping
       There's nothing quite like gritting your teeth and throwing yourself headlong into a Himalayan gorge, and bungee aficionados will find one of Asia's deepest drops.
       Paragliding
       Paragliding offers you an opportunity to soar silently like the majestic griffon over the valleys around Pokhara.
       Mountain biking
       A mountain bike is a terrific way of getting off the beaten track and reaching remote and untouched corners of the country under your own steam.
       Chitwan National Park
       The vast expanse of Chitwan is home to Nepal's signature species - rhinos, tigers,sloth bears and elephants - and is just the place to do an elephant-top safari.
       Canyoning
       The ultimate in water sports, canyoning among mighty boulders, waterfalls and natural water slides will set your pulse racing.
       FESTIVALS
       Nothing better reveals the cultural richness of Nepal than its festivals. Masked dances,chariot races and tugs of war attract large crowds and enthusiastic participants. Visiting a festival, you will see the Nepalis at their colourful, energetic best.
       Losar
       Triggered by the new moon in February,Losar marks the Tibetan New Year and involves 15 days of celebrations for Tibetan communities across the Himalaya.
       Bisket Jatra
       The Nepalis celebrate their New Year with the festival of Bisket Jatra, which features huge crowds dragging tottering chariots through the winding backstreets of the Kathmandu Valley.
       Holi
       Known as the Festival of Colour, Holi must be the most riotous celebration on the Nepali calendar.
       Dasain
       Celebrating the victory of the goddess Durga over the forces of evil, Dasain is the most important festival across Nepal.
       2008 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd.All rights reserved. For more information
       visit www.lonelyplanet.com.
       This is an edited extract from Lonely Planet's Nepal guidebook,8th edition by Joe Bindloss, et al,ฉ Lonely Planet Publications,2009.

TEMPLES' CONTRASTS MARK CHANGING TIMES

       Wat Ratchapradit and Wat Ratchabophit are separated by much more than the old city moat By Peerawat Jariyasombat
       Behind Saran Rom Park, just a stone's throw from the Grand Palace, there are two beautiful temples by the old city moat that reflect big changes that took place more than 100 years ago in old Siam. And fortunately for those who like to linger off the beaten path,these two temples are not included in most tourist maps.
       On the western side of the moat is Wat Ratchapradit, built in 1864 by King Rama IV as the first temple for the Dhammayut Buddhist sect.
       The establishment of Wat Ratchapradit completed the trilogy of ancient royal temples that includes Wat Maha That and Wat Rat Burana.
       Wat Ratchapradit is laid out in an ancient style which had been forgotten in the early Rattanakosin Era. The marbledecorated pagoda, or Pasan Chedi, was placed at the centre of the temple complex,flanked by the ubosoth and vihara.
       It is common for temples in Thailand to surround the ubosoth with sema, or stone leaves, marking the territory where monks may hold religious rituals. But this temple placed sema on the temple walls, allowing the monks to hold religious rituals at any place in the temple compound.
       The pagoda is surrounded with significant buildings, such as Phra Chom Hall on the west side, which houses a life-size statue of King Rama IV. On the east side is the Tripitaka hall, and on the south is a Khmer-style stupa housing the ashes of important monks who resided in the temple.
       On the north side is the wonderfully decorated vihara. The door and window arches - delicately carved from thick teak and beautified with gold leaf and mirrors - are decorated in the shape of the Thai crown. The murals of the vihara are very important historical records depicting important royal ceremonies of ancient times, some of which are still held today, such as Songkran and Loy Kratong.
       Perhaps the most striking mural shows the solar eclipse of Aug 18,1868, as witnessed by King Rama IV in Wa Kor, Prachuap Khiri Khan province. A talented astronomer, the King had predicted the eclipse.
       Tragically, King Rama IV died of malaria soon after the eclipse.
       The murals reflect the traditional lifestyle in Siam during the reign of King Rama IV, before the big changes that took place during the reign of his successor, King Rama V, who built Wat Ratchabophit a year after his accession to the throne on the other side of the old city moat.
       This temple has a similar layout as Wat Ratchapradit, with a pagoda at the centre surrounded by the ubosoth and vihara, but it has a distinctly different style.
       One thing that makes Wat Ratchabophit so outstanding is the millions of colourful mosaics which decorate every square inch of the elegant temple. The impressive decoration prompted the title of "the temple of Benjarong", referring to the multi-coloured porcelain which became famous during the reign of King Rama V.
       Although the exteriors of the temple buildings embody excellent traditional Thai art, the interiors of the ubosoth and vihara are surprisingly Western in style.The ceilings are beautified with Gothic art, blended with a gilded motif in Thai style.
       The decoration mirrors the great influence the West began to hold in Siam about a century ago. During that period the country accepted art and knowledge from abroad which helped develop the kingdom in the areas of transportation,mobility, architecture, public heath and military science.
       Even the temple's doors are decorated with soldiers in typically western uniforms,instead of angels or warriors as is traditional.
       WHAT ARE YOUR IMPRESSIONS OF WAT RATCHAPRADIT AND WAT RATCHABOPHIT?
       "Here it is is very beautiful, serene and peaceful."SOMPHONG MARASI,EMPLOYEE
       "Wat Ratchabophit is very beautiful, but there are some things that take away from its stunning beauty."CHATCHAWAL SAE CHUNG,STUDENT
       "The temples are beautiful and quite peaceful. They are real temples."SUVIMON KULTHAMYOTHIN,HOUSEWIFE
       HOW TO GET THERE
       Wat Ratchapradit is on Saran Rom Road, north of Saran Rom Park and just across from the Grand Palace.Wat Ratchabophit is located across the moat from Wat Ratchapradit.
       The area can be reached by bus numbers 1,2,60 and 512.

TIMOR LESTE'S REDEEMING FEATURES

       If you can suffer the still basic tourist facilities in the capital Dili, there are spectacular sights to see in this young country.

       Beyond the white-sand beaches and vestiges of colonial legacy left by the Portuguese, Dili boasts few places of interest for those travelling to Timor Leste.
       The country has a long history of colonisation and war, with the Portuguese ruling over the barren territory for 450 years until Indonesia assumed control in 1974. After a long independence struggle, Timor leste finally wrestled its destiny from Indonesia's grip in 1999.
       the former port city is bordered by a mountain range to the east, south and west and the sea to the north. Many of the old colonial buildings, including the old government offices and the post office, still retain their original architectural design but most remain in use and cannot be visited by tourists. An exception is the government complex, which boasts vast gardens and roads with wide, well=paved walkways.
       But why head there when you could be at one of Dili's beaches, relaxing under the shady banyan trees, sipping locally harvested arabica coffee or a freshly picked coconut?
       The most renowned is Pantai Pasir Putih (white sand beach), situated about four kilometres east of Dili. As the name suggests, this lazy getaway charms visitors with its white sand and clear, calm water. With just a few minor ripples in the sea, the location is dieal for children.
       Locally famous as a family picnic spot, visitors to Pantai Pasir Putih can enjoy the gorgeous views of tall, sunbaked hills and the beach itself. During the working week, the spot is very quiet.
       Nightlife is virtually non-existent, so don't come expecting a discotheque or cinema. There are red-light hot spots disguised as massage parlours, which locals claim cater mainly to expatriates.
       The bottom line is that tourist facilities still very rudimentary - Dili has a long way to go before it will attract global travellers seeking out a classy holiday. However, there is Hotel Lus Clarita, just a stone's throw from parties regularly on Friday and Saturday nights.
       Los Palos, at the eastern tip of Timor Island, is becoming a more popular spot for tourists. Around six hours by car from Dili over bumpy roads and seemingly endless hills, the area features some fanstastic beaches and gives a glimpse of the local culture.
       Timor Leste is acclaimed for its indigenous woven cloth, easily found in major shops or being sold from road-side stalls, most likely by the villagers who made it.
       Another big draw for tourists is the Jesus Christ the King statue (missing this landmark is like going to Italy without dropping by the Vatican - or so the locals say).
       Visiting the giant icon is worth the exhausting trek through scrub areas and along the ridges of barren hills.
       Along the one-kilometre paved pathway leading to the statue are small grottoes depicting the Via Dolorosa. Beginning with Jesus being condemned to death at the lowest grotto, the frieze finishes towards the top of the path with Jesus being resurrected from the dead. It's a shame that many of the grottoes have been vandalised.
       If you decide to make a pilgrimage, don't forget to fuel up at breakfast - and take along extra water. All vehicles have to park by the beach at the foot of the hill, so you must continue on foot. On a hot day, it's a good idea to take an umbrella or wide-brimmed hat as protection.
       The tall bronze statue perches on top of a limestone cliff, with a majestic view over Dili and the white beaches with their clear waters. The capital's main buildings and ships moored at the port can be made out in the distance.
       Every Easter, around 5,000 people gather for mass in the large open area surrounding the statue. One final push is needed to actually reach the base of the monument, but it is certainly worth it. The breathtaking view of the blue sea in all directions quickly overcomes feelings of exhaustion.
       The gargantuan statue was built in 1996 by the Indonesian colonial administration as an effort to win over the people of Timor Leste.
       Transportation in Dili is a major headache for visitors, with taxis virtually the only option. mini-buses are available, but learning the routes, switching buses and waiting for long periods are hassles.
       Even though taxi drivers are generally very friendly, some provide terribly poor service. The cars are mostly run-down with no air-conditioners or meters. Officially, the fare is supposed to be US$1 (Bt33) per in-city trip, but the driver may charge you up to $5 on the pretext that your destination appears to be "farther than he thinks".
       Our driver charged us an additional $10 for each hour he waited without telling us beforehand. Cabbies also get very picky after sunset. Although the streets may be empty, drivers will sometimes faltly refuse to take you, without providing a reason. Later, I learned that they avoid certain areas notorious for crime. Pointing at his broken windshield, a driver said it was pelted with stones by drunken youths.
       As long as you pack your sense of humour, Timor Leste is a lovely country.

Samoa fears "second tsunami" on tourism

       Samoa's tourism industry said it fears a "second tsunami" of holiday cancellations after deadly earthquaketriggered waves wiped out some of the South Pacific country's most idyllic whitesand beaches and resorts.
       Tourism is Samoa's largest industry,and travel industry representatives visiting the main island's wrecked southeast coast said on Friday about one-quarter of the tourist accommodations had been destroyed.
       Nynette Sass, chief executive of the Samoa Hotel Association, said the industry was alarmed by anecdotal reports of mass holiday cancellations since Tuesday's disaster.
       "If substantial numbers of tourists start cancelling, that will be like having a second tsunami on us," Ms Sass said.The industry accounts for 25% of the country's gross domestic product, she said.
       The death toll rose to 170, including 129 in Samoa,32 in the nearby US territory of American Samoa and nine in Tonga.
       Electricity and water services were restored in about half of the affected villages in Samoa and American Samoa,and residents tried to return to what was left of their lives.
       Samoan tourist industry representatives said the damage on the southeast coastline of the main island of Upolu included four resorts and more than 20 family operations that rented simple traditional huts, known as fale .Ms Sass said many travellers did not realise the tsunami devastated a relatively small part of the coast, though the worst-hit beach area, between the villages of Saleapaga and Lalomanu, was widely regarded by tourists as the most beautiful.
       "It's sad that we've had to try to convince people that it's not the whole country that's flooded, infrastructure is still in place and the cleanup is going really fast," she said.
       Ms Sass said government assistance would be vital to rebuilding a tourism industry that is worth 300 million Samoan tala (4.3 billion baht) a year.
       More pressing, however, was residents'survival.
       American Samoa Governor Togiola Tulafono said the Federal Emergency Management Agency (Fema) would establish an office where displaced residents can get housing assistance.
       Officials said the focus is shifting from saving lives to providing survivors with food, water and power.
       Ken Tingman, Fema's federal coordinating officer, said that doesn't mean the missing are being given up for dead.
       "You never lose hope," he said.Mr Tingman expected almost all of the territory to have power from generators within three to five days.
       Taule'alea Laavasa, chairman of the Samoan government's National Disaster Advisory Committee, said relief work was going well with the help of neighbours including New Zealand and Australia.
       But many survivors refused to return to their villages.
       "They're scared; a lot of them have been psychologically affected by seeing their relations die in huge numbers,"Mr Laavasa said.

HOW TO MAKE PRIENDS WITH THE FRENCH

       A cure for Parisians' brusque, haughty reputation may be at hand. Take a website, ad a hint of anise based pastis liqueur, a game of petanque and international travellers ready to mingle.
       Two young entrepreneurs are introducing visitors to paris life a la francaise.
       On a recent evening, they brought out hte pastis, some water to mix it with, fruit juice and Coca-Cola for an international happy hour al fresco. With the Eiffel Tower in the backgroud, people opened snacks and bottles and started chatting.
       Remi Brichant, 25, and Guillaume Giler, 24, launched a website in May that organises social events, www.EnjoyOurParis.com. the idea came from a personal travel experience.
       When Giler studied abroad in Australia a few years ago, he was put in touch with a local student who showed him around his new campus and introduced him to people.
       Brichant and Giler thought Paris should have similar service and decided to take the concept further by creating special events where international visitors could meet Parisians to talk, share and just have fun. In a few months, some 600 members signed up.
       "In Paris there are so many foreigners, and Parisians are known to be difficult to meet," says Giler.
       As the sun set and the evening light grew pink, a group of aproximately 20 people formed around the table, introducing themselves to one another, mostly in English or French.
       Aurelie Bernos, 25, poured drinks. She grew up in Paris and lived in Australia for a year while in school.
       "It's fun - there are always new people," she said.
       She brought along a work colleague, Fabien Huett, 28, from southern France, who lived in Paris for eight yers. Like the participants from faraway lands, he said it has been difficult for him to meet Parisians.
       Marcus Grambau, 24, was on a two-month visit in Paris from Melbourne.
       "I didn't want to spedn two months here alone," he said. the first event Grambau attended was on Bastille Day.
       For the national holiday, Brichant hostd a party at his parents' apartment, which has a view of the Eiffel Tower, When the firworks set off from the Parisiam landmark, the international group had one of the best seats in the city to watch the show.
       "If I hadn't joined the group, I would have been standing in the crowd like everyone else," Grambau said.
       Since meeting up with the EnjoyOurParis.com crowd, he's made friends with three Franch people and regularly meets them for drinks and dinner.
       On the pastis evening, Grambau and the rest of the group played petanque, Frqance's version of bocce ball. Brichant and Giler randomly drew names to decide what the teams would be.
       "We try to put them with people they don't know," Brichant explained.
       On one side of the field, Perrine Le Guern, a 24-year old pastry cook from the northwestern city of Rennes, teamed up with Milli Bruck, 26, who ws visiting from Germany. Bernos teamed with Harry Krakhofer, 23, visiting from Austria.
       With the help of Le Guern, who translated into English, Parisian Augustin Fabre explained the rules, Brichant and Giler kept track of scores, but the focus was clearly not on who won.
       BIENENUE!
       Signs up at http://Fr.EnjoyOurParis.com and fill out the questionnaire. Check what interests you - cultural, food, or nighttime events are some of the categories.
       Once logged in, you'll be able to see the calendar and who has signed up. Brichant and Giler also send our a weekly e-mail newsletter to let people know what events are coming up.
       Aperitifs are free and participants can bring something to eat or drink. However, some events have a fee and the online calendar will mention the price.

HAVE YOU SEEN THE DRAGON

       This weekend the Mekong River will again erupt with its myterious fireballs. What are they? Join the never-ending debate and make up your own mind.
       The phenomenon is as enigmatic as it si beautiful. Thousands of pink and red bursts of light-the "naga fireballs" sometimes called "ghost fireballs"-rise from the Mekong in Nong Khai on the Lao border.
       It might as well be an episode in "The X-Files" sci-fi television series. It happens only at this time each year, under the full moon of the 11th lunar month, which falls on Monday on the old Laotian calendar.
       The glowing spheres, the size of chicken eggs, hang in the air for a few minutes before disappearing, leaving in their wake astonishment, mystification and many many questions.
       a hoax? A miracle? Why only at this time of the year? Why Nong Khai?
       Manas Kanoksil is one of the "myth busters". The local doctor has been observing and studying the fireballs for more than 10 years.
       The science that he's applied tells him that the bizarre phenomenon is the combustion of natural gases released from the riverbed and heat drifting on the surface.
       The combustion requires a complete set of perfectly natural occurrences, including the relative positions of the earth, sun and moon. Hence its occur rence on the last night of Buddhist Lent.
       However, the local people tend to be more interested in swapping science for mythology.
       Way back at the birth of legends, the story goes, Nong Khai and other settlements along the Mekong were created by the water serpents called nagas.
       Only later was the saga imbued with Buddhist fancy: The Lord Buddha ascended to heaven for Lent to visit his mother and his return during the full moon of the 11th lunar month was cause for rejoicing.
       To show their delight, the nagas shot fireballs into the air.
       The drama continues. A television crew once tried to convince, witnesses that it was a hoax perpetrated by the Lao on the far side on the river. Unfortunately, the only proof was videotape of a few Lao firing their rifles into the air.
       A painter living on the Thai bank, Manas Anuraksa, remains enchanted by the fireball phenomenon, regardless of the explanation.
       "It's very peculiar, and we're not sure who or what causes it, but whatever it is,I believe this mythical event could make Nong Khai special enough to become a wonder of the world."
       Manas is right. The sleepy little town, once known to visitors only as a place to get a cold beer before crossing teh border to Laos, has become a popular destination thanks to the bizarre annual show.
       Every year more than 300,000 people come to see the fireballs, and no fewer are expected this weekend, when they're scheduled to recur.
       One way to watch them is rent a motorcycle and ride eastward along the Mekong from Muang district to Phon Phisai and Rattanawapee.
       Ask around about the best spots to stop-the riverbanks get quite crowded in places-and keep your eyes peeled from 6 to 9pm.
       There will also be religious ceremonies marking the end of the three - month Lenten retreat, plus longtailed-boat races, fireworks and illuminated floats.
       Strictly sideshows, of course-you have to see the fireballs.

SHIFTING SANDS

       Dubai has earned itself an unlikely spot amid the world\'s ritziest - and priciest - beachside hot spots. Paris Hilton, Lindsay Lohan and David Beckham have all been spotted partying in this opulent Arabian playground, where a poolside beer can easily top 37 dirhams (Bt330) and one hotel boasts rooms starting at US$1,000 a night. That doesn't mean you need to be a rich oil tycoon to afford this sunny desert boomtown, however. Here are some tips to get you started.
       GETTING AROUND
       The blast-furnace heat and humidity make long daytime strolls unrealistic in summer, when the mercury can approach 48 Celsius. Even during the pleasant period from October through May, you'll likely need some sort of transport.
       Until you get the hang of the newly opened Dubai Metro, your best bet is one of the ubiquitous sand-colored taxis. All are metered and cheap by Western standards. Fares start at 3 dirhams, but beware the 20-dirham surcharge from the airport. Drivers are generally honest and, like most people you'll meet, speak good English.
       Another option is a seat on the doubledecker buses operated by Big Bus Tours. The hop-on, hop-off tickets are not cheap - a one-day pass costs 220 dirhams for adults and 99 dirhams for kids - but the tours are an efficient way to see the sprawling city's highlights. Don't forget sunscreen if you plan to ride up top. Details at http://www.BigBusTours.com/eng/dubai/default.aspx.
       HISTORICAL SITES AND MUSEUMS
       Dubai is rightly known as an unabashedly modern city of gleaming high-rises and extravagant shopping malls. That makes its rare historical sites all the more special. Take time to stroll the winding streets of the bustling old neighbourhoods straddling the downtown creek.
       Start your visit at the Dubai Museum, housed in the renovated Al Fahidi Fort in the Bur Dubai district. Exhibits depict activities such as pearl diving and date farming that shaped life in the region before the discovery of oil. Tickets are a bargain at 3 dirhams.
       Next, get lost amid the refurbished wind towers and minarets of the Bastakiya quarter's walkable lanes. Then make your way down to the quay. where you can catch a ride on one of the traditional wooden abras ferrying passengers across the creek. A one-way ride costs just 1 dirham. Or charter your own for 100 dirhams per hour.
       On the Deira side, head to the colourful old souk. Follow your nose first to the spice market, where you'll find great deals on saffron as well as non-edible aromatics like frankincense. Continue to the covered gold souk. It's worth a visit just to ogle the wares. If you are buying, ignore the touts at the market's entrance and be sure to haggle hard once inside.
       Four days a week, the Jumeirah Mosque south of Bur Dubai opens its doors to non-Muslims. Guides from the Sheik Mohammed Centre for Cultural Understanding end each 10 am tour with a question-and-answer session about Islam and Arabic life.
       MODERN WONDERS
       With little oil of its own, Dubai has staked its future largely on becoming a global marketplace for big (and little) spenders. That makes the city's malls among the world's most incredible. And rambling through their super-chilled corridors doesn't coat a dirham.
       With little oil of its own, Dubai has staked its future largely on becoming a global marketplace for big (and little) spenders. That makes the city's malls among the world's most incredible. And rambling through their super-chilled corridors doesn't cost a dirham.
       The brand new Dubai Mall ranks among the world's biggest. Its main draw is a massive a quarium boasting the world's largest viewing panel. There is also an Olympic-sized ice rink, multi-storey waterfall and recreated gold souk. Oh, and hundreds of shops.
       Under construction next door stretches the spindly Burj Dubai (Dubai Tower), the world's tallest building. The glass-and-metal behemoth tops out at more than 800 meters, though its exact height remains a secret.
       Off the coast nearby lies Palm Jumeirah, a manmade island built in the shape of a palm tree. You won't be able to get inside the gated communities on the island's "fronds", but you can take a monorail, round trip (25 dirhams) up to the Atlantis hotel at the island's top.
       ENTERTAINMENT
       Hit the sand without shelling out for a waterfront hotel by joining the locals at one of the city's public beaches. Entry to Jumeirah Beach Park, just down the road from the iconic sail-shaped Burj al-Arab hotel, costs just 5 dirhams.
       A trip to one of Dubai's two well-run water parks costs considerably more, but it's worth it. Wild Wadi charges 195 dirhams for adults and 165 dirhams for children, though late afternoon "sun downer" discounts are available.
       For some of the best bird's-eye views of the Palm Jumeirah, head to the Observatory lounge on the 52nd floor of the Harbour Hotel. Here you can watch the sun set while sinking half-priced happy hour cocktails from 5 to 7 pm. No shorts.
       FOOD
       The city's many malls offer some of the best deals on quick meals. Besides the usual suspects like McDonald's and Subway, food courts offer a good variety of Middle Eastern and Asian restaurants. Zaatar W Zeit is a Lebanese chain serving up decent Arabic snacks, while Shamiana is a good bet for Indian food.
       Downtown, grab a meat-filled shawarma sandwich at any of the hole-in-the-wall shops for under 7 dirhams or follow the predominantly South Asian crowd to the area's many Indian and Pakistani restaurants. A filling vegetarian thali (platter) costs 15 dirhams at Saravanaa Bhavan.
       Many supermarkets serve a far wider range of prepared meals than you might expect. Takeout Arabic roasted lamb platters, Filipino rice dishes and all-American barbecue chicken are all easy to find.
       ACCOMMODATION
       The financial crisis has had the positive side effect of dragging Dubai hotel rates down from the stratosphere. Shop around and you may find you can afford far more luxury than you think.
       One of the best central options is the Orient Guest House, located in a renovated courtyard building in the Bastakiya area. Bed and breakfast for two can currently be had for as little as 350 dirhams a night. As a bonus, guests can use the near by facilities at sister Arabian Courtyard Hotel & Spa, a welcoming if kitschy fourstar option in its own right.