TEMPLES' CONTRASTS MARK CHANGING TIMES

       Wat Ratchapradit and Wat Ratchabophit are separated by much more than the old city moat By Peerawat Jariyasombat
       Behind Saran Rom Park, just a stone's throw from the Grand Palace, there are two beautiful temples by the old city moat that reflect big changes that took place more than 100 years ago in old Siam. And fortunately for those who like to linger off the beaten path,these two temples are not included in most tourist maps.
       On the western side of the moat is Wat Ratchapradit, built in 1864 by King Rama IV as the first temple for the Dhammayut Buddhist sect.
       The establishment of Wat Ratchapradit completed the trilogy of ancient royal temples that includes Wat Maha That and Wat Rat Burana.
       Wat Ratchapradit is laid out in an ancient style which had been forgotten in the early Rattanakosin Era. The marbledecorated pagoda, or Pasan Chedi, was placed at the centre of the temple complex,flanked by the ubosoth and vihara.
       It is common for temples in Thailand to surround the ubosoth with sema, or stone leaves, marking the territory where monks may hold religious rituals. But this temple placed sema on the temple walls, allowing the monks to hold religious rituals at any place in the temple compound.
       The pagoda is surrounded with significant buildings, such as Phra Chom Hall on the west side, which houses a life-size statue of King Rama IV. On the east side is the Tripitaka hall, and on the south is a Khmer-style stupa housing the ashes of important monks who resided in the temple.
       On the north side is the wonderfully decorated vihara. The door and window arches - delicately carved from thick teak and beautified with gold leaf and mirrors - are decorated in the shape of the Thai crown. The murals of the vihara are very important historical records depicting important royal ceremonies of ancient times, some of which are still held today, such as Songkran and Loy Kratong.
       Perhaps the most striking mural shows the solar eclipse of Aug 18,1868, as witnessed by King Rama IV in Wa Kor, Prachuap Khiri Khan province. A talented astronomer, the King had predicted the eclipse.
       Tragically, King Rama IV died of malaria soon after the eclipse.
       The murals reflect the traditional lifestyle in Siam during the reign of King Rama IV, before the big changes that took place during the reign of his successor, King Rama V, who built Wat Ratchabophit a year after his accession to the throne on the other side of the old city moat.
       This temple has a similar layout as Wat Ratchapradit, with a pagoda at the centre surrounded by the ubosoth and vihara, but it has a distinctly different style.
       One thing that makes Wat Ratchabophit so outstanding is the millions of colourful mosaics which decorate every square inch of the elegant temple. The impressive decoration prompted the title of "the temple of Benjarong", referring to the multi-coloured porcelain which became famous during the reign of King Rama V.
       Although the exteriors of the temple buildings embody excellent traditional Thai art, the interiors of the ubosoth and vihara are surprisingly Western in style.The ceilings are beautified with Gothic art, blended with a gilded motif in Thai style.
       The decoration mirrors the great influence the West began to hold in Siam about a century ago. During that period the country accepted art and knowledge from abroad which helped develop the kingdom in the areas of transportation,mobility, architecture, public heath and military science.
       Even the temple's doors are decorated with soldiers in typically western uniforms,instead of angels or warriors as is traditional.
       WHAT ARE YOUR IMPRESSIONS OF WAT RATCHAPRADIT AND WAT RATCHABOPHIT?
       "Here it is is very beautiful, serene and peaceful."SOMPHONG MARASI,EMPLOYEE
       "Wat Ratchabophit is very beautiful, but there are some things that take away from its stunning beauty."CHATCHAWAL SAE CHUNG,STUDENT
       "The temples are beautiful and quite peaceful. They are real temples."SUVIMON KULTHAMYOTHIN,HOUSEWIFE
       HOW TO GET THERE
       Wat Ratchapradit is on Saran Rom Road, north of Saran Rom Park and just across from the Grand Palace.Wat Ratchabophit is located across the moat from Wat Ratchapradit.
       The area can be reached by bus numbers 1,2,60 and 512.