TIMOR LESTE'S REDEEMING FEATURES

       If you can suffer the still basic tourist facilities in the capital Dili, there are spectacular sights to see in this young country.

       Beyond the white-sand beaches and vestiges of colonial legacy left by the Portuguese, Dili boasts few places of interest for those travelling to Timor Leste.
       The country has a long history of colonisation and war, with the Portuguese ruling over the barren territory for 450 years until Indonesia assumed control in 1974. After a long independence struggle, Timor leste finally wrestled its destiny from Indonesia's grip in 1999.
       the former port city is bordered by a mountain range to the east, south and west and the sea to the north. Many of the old colonial buildings, including the old government offices and the post office, still retain their original architectural design but most remain in use and cannot be visited by tourists. An exception is the government complex, which boasts vast gardens and roads with wide, well=paved walkways.
       But why head there when you could be at one of Dili's beaches, relaxing under the shady banyan trees, sipping locally harvested arabica coffee or a freshly picked coconut?
       The most renowned is Pantai Pasir Putih (white sand beach), situated about four kilometres east of Dili. As the name suggests, this lazy getaway charms visitors with its white sand and clear, calm water. With just a few minor ripples in the sea, the location is dieal for children.
       Locally famous as a family picnic spot, visitors to Pantai Pasir Putih can enjoy the gorgeous views of tall, sunbaked hills and the beach itself. During the working week, the spot is very quiet.
       Nightlife is virtually non-existent, so don't come expecting a discotheque or cinema. There are red-light hot spots disguised as massage parlours, which locals claim cater mainly to expatriates.
       The bottom line is that tourist facilities still very rudimentary - Dili has a long way to go before it will attract global travellers seeking out a classy holiday. However, there is Hotel Lus Clarita, just a stone's throw from parties regularly on Friday and Saturday nights.
       Los Palos, at the eastern tip of Timor Island, is becoming a more popular spot for tourists. Around six hours by car from Dili over bumpy roads and seemingly endless hills, the area features some fanstastic beaches and gives a glimpse of the local culture.
       Timor Leste is acclaimed for its indigenous woven cloth, easily found in major shops or being sold from road-side stalls, most likely by the villagers who made it.
       Another big draw for tourists is the Jesus Christ the King statue (missing this landmark is like going to Italy without dropping by the Vatican - or so the locals say).
       Visiting the giant icon is worth the exhausting trek through scrub areas and along the ridges of barren hills.
       Along the one-kilometre paved pathway leading to the statue are small grottoes depicting the Via Dolorosa. Beginning with Jesus being condemned to death at the lowest grotto, the frieze finishes towards the top of the path with Jesus being resurrected from the dead. It's a shame that many of the grottoes have been vandalised.
       If you decide to make a pilgrimage, don't forget to fuel up at breakfast - and take along extra water. All vehicles have to park by the beach at the foot of the hill, so you must continue on foot. On a hot day, it's a good idea to take an umbrella or wide-brimmed hat as protection.
       The tall bronze statue perches on top of a limestone cliff, with a majestic view over Dili and the white beaches with their clear waters. The capital's main buildings and ships moored at the port can be made out in the distance.
       Every Easter, around 5,000 people gather for mass in the large open area surrounding the statue. One final push is needed to actually reach the base of the monument, but it is certainly worth it. The breathtaking view of the blue sea in all directions quickly overcomes feelings of exhaustion.
       The gargantuan statue was built in 1996 by the Indonesian colonial administration as an effort to win over the people of Timor Leste.
       Transportation in Dili is a major headache for visitors, with taxis virtually the only option. mini-buses are available, but learning the routes, switching buses and waiting for long periods are hassles.
       Even though taxi drivers are generally very friendly, some provide terribly poor service. The cars are mostly run-down with no air-conditioners or meters. Officially, the fare is supposed to be US$1 (Bt33) per in-city trip, but the driver may charge you up to $5 on the pretext that your destination appears to be "farther than he thinks".
       Our driver charged us an additional $10 for each hour he waited without telling us beforehand. Cabbies also get very picky after sunset. Although the streets may be empty, drivers will sometimes faltly refuse to take you, without providing a reason. Later, I learned that they avoid certain areas notorious for crime. Pointing at his broken windshield, a driver said it was pelted with stones by drunken youths.
       As long as you pack your sense of humour, Timor Leste is a lovely country.