Saturday, August 22, 2009

VENEZUELA? ARE YOU CARACAS?!

       Venezuela should be a tourist mecca. It boasts the world's highest waterfall, snowcapped Andean mountain peaks and white-sand beaches dotting one of the longest coastlines in the Caribbean. But hurdles such as fly-by-night tour operators, the lack of qualified guides and mediocre accommodations in many remote regions keep many potential visitors away leaving some of Latin America's most diverse natural beauty for the most diverse natural beauty for the most adventuresome.
       During more than a decade living in Venezuela, I've discovered that the hang-ups that come with exploring destinations off the beaten path are often eclipsed by the rewarding experiences.
       Try trekking up Roraima, one of the flat-topped mountains called "tepuis" in southeastern Bolivar state.
       The plateaus-among the world's most ancient rock formations, shaped cy heavy rains over millions of years-inspired "Up!", Pixar's latest computer-animated film, about a cranky old man who flies to South America in a floating house suspended from helium balloons.
       Merciless biting flies - nick-names la plaga, or "the pague", by locals - can make the arduous twoday hike through surrounding savannahs to the top of Roraima harrowing, but visitors are awestruck upon reaching the summit. When sunshine bursts through the clouds, a fantastic landscape is unveiled: Beds of crystals and pink sand edge streams running through gorges and pools.
       If Roraima sounds too tough,consider flying into the heart of Canaima National Park about 250 kilometres to the east for a visit to Angel Falls, the world's highest waterfall at 979 metres with an uninterrupted drop of 807 metres. Visitors can fly over the falls in small planes, but most choose to be ferried up the Churun River in dugout canoes and hike through the steamy jungle to the base of the falls for a refreshing swim among the rocks below.
       The sun-baked southwestern plains known as Los Llanos that span the country's sparsely populated heartland are popular with ecotourists.
       Stay at one of the numerous hatos, expansive cattle ranches catering to those eager to spot species such as long-snouted giant anteaters or capybaras, the world's hargest rodent, weighing as much as 68 kilograms.
       The most courageous visitors fish for piranas in muddy rivers inhabited by Orinoco crocodiles reaching up to 6 metres or help guides pull one of the world's biggest snakes, the green anaconda, from swamplands. Their souvenir might be a photo in which they hold the fearsome reptile, which can weigh up to 227 kilograms and reach 9.1 metres.
       Anglers will want to try their luck in the Orinoco River Basin - home to over 1,000 species of fish. The speckled peacock bass can grow close to one metre an dthe payara, featuring two long fangs protruding from its lower jaw, always put up a good fight, making them favourites among sport fisherman. A catfish called the "valenton" weighs up to 150 kilograms.
       To escape the stifling heat, head west to Los Andes. The city of Merida is a charming, university town providing a perfect jumping off point for visits to nearby snowcapped mountains in Sierra Nevada National Park.
       The world's longest and highest cable car normally brings travellers directly from the city to a lookout near Espejo Peak perched 4,765 metres above sea level. The cable car system is currently out of service, so visitors are taken up the mountain in jeeps. Serious mountaineers organise climbs of higher mountains such as Bolivar Peak-the country's highest at 5,007 metres - through local tour operators. Paragliding, hanggliding, mountain biking and rafting excursions are offered.
       If you prefer wiggling your toes in the sand to jungle treks or adrenaline sports, the geaches dotting one of the longest coastlines in the Caribbean offer rest and relaxation for weary travellers. Or fly to Los Roques-an archipelago of tiny Caribbean islands offering snorkelling and scuba diving along numerous coral reefs and deserted white-sand beaches.
       Located 150 kilometres off the mainland,Los Roques is a paradise for nature lovers. Over 280 fish species, including rainbowcoloured parrot fish and yellow striped angel fish, dance around divers in the crystalline waters. Brown boobies and scarlet ibises are among the dozens of bird species found on the islands.

       IF YOU GO...
       GETTING THERE: From Bangkok, your gateway into Venezuela is Europe. There are non-stop flights from Paris, Rome, Milan, Madrid and Frankfurt.
       GETTING AROUND: Buses are the best way to get from city to city, but sevices to smaller towns can be irregular, there are no roads to Angel Falls, so visitors must arrange flights from Ciudad Bolivar, Small airplanes-called"aero-taxis" by locals-are the best way into the Ovinoco River Basin.

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