THE INS AND OUTS OF LUCKNOW

       To new arrivals it seems like any other city-roofs sprout forests of antennas, rickshaw drivers pester and politicians stare down from postes pasted everywhere.
       But venture dehind the flimsy modern scenery and you enter the Lucknow of the nawabs, a centuries-old city built by Muslim rulers on foundations of Urdu poetry and gorgeous architectural grandeur.
       Minarets soar from onion-domes shrines and mausoleums that dominate the horizon. Close up, the astounding creftsmanship is a feast for the eyes. Every brick outlines an era marked by pomp and ceremony, but also rebellion and revenge.
       The extravagance spills over into the modern word, where wedding processions and their colourful chariots tempt even the most confirmed of bachelors.
       Elsewhere elegant taangas (horse carriages for hire) skitter through the city's ornate gateways. Kite flying generates good business, too, replacing the cockfighting that enthralled residents in bygone days.
       The traditional Lucknow biriyani and kebabs in the lanes of the Aminabad Bazaar compete for shoppers' palates with Chinese noodle stalls. This is also the place to hunt for Chikan, Lucknow's delicate embroidery, as well as intricately designed hookahs. Lifting their eyes to the shopfront facades visitors find a dilapidated charm that brings out the artist or historian in everyone.
       Myth has it that Lucknow derives its name from Lakshman, who was gifted the fiefdom from his brother, the god Rama.
       Its journey to grandeur began under Nawab Asaf-ud-Daulah's regin (1775-1797). A great famine brought out his generosity. His scheme was simple - initiate grand building projects and pay the starving population handsomely for work to complete them. It gave the world a host of architectural stunners.
       To this nawab is credited the Great Imambara, built as a Muslim shrine, the Rumi Darwaja (the Turkish Gate) and the Chhota Imambara. The Great Imambara is famous for its Bhool Bhulaiya (maze of passages) and its grand display of opulence: myriad chandeliers and lanterns of gold, silver and crystal, mesmerising Indian and Chinese artworks and precious European artefacts.
       Mini-concerts at the Naubat Khana, the old royal music hall opposite the Great Imamabra, provide even more insight into the atmosphere of a bygone era.
       Other must-see treasures in the city include the Bibiapur Kothi, Jama Masjid, Maqbaraa of Sadaat Ali Khan, La Martiniere's Tomb, Kaiser Baagh, and the City Art Gallery.
       Most of the stately monuments are located in the Husainabad area and within walking distance of each other.
       Lucknow is also famed for its food, and the delicacies offered at the roadside dhabas (local restaurants) are delicious. I recommend ordering a half portion of biriyani in Aminabad as the helpings are huge. Try the sticky halwa for dessert.
       The Hazratganj (MG Marg) district in teh heart of the city offers decent lodgings and abounds in restaurants, bars, banks and bookshops. Take to its small lanes for bargain salwaars (pants), leather items, Chikan, silverware and ittars (natural perfumes). But beware of the "ganga Jal" (holy water) sold in recycled bottles - it's certainly not for drinking.
       The story of the nawabs' downfall is a familiar one to history. Most of them were feeble rulers, more interested in their harems, hookahs and banquets. The rot began with Nawab Wazir Ali Khan, who in 1798 managed to alienate both his people and the British and was forced to abdicate. The British took complete control in 1856, exiling the Nawab Wajid Ali Shah, then ruthlessly putting down a rebellion a year later.

       AT A GLANCE
       - Travel: Jet Airways flies from Bangkok to Lucknow via Delhi.
       - Shopping: The city is famous for its unique Chikan embroidery and jewellery. Shopping areas include Aminabad, Kapoorthala, Hazratganj and Janpath.
       - Sightseeing: Asafi Masjid, Bara Imambara, Shahnajaf Imambara, Chhatar Manzil, Chhota Immbara, Rumi Darwaza and Dilkusha, among others.

       Close up, the astounding craftsmanship is a feast for the eyes. Every brick outlines an era marked by pomp and ceremony, but also rebellion and revenge.